Xerém
Coarsely ground maize cooked to a soft porridge, the everyday version of what cachupa does at length. Eaten with fish, sausage or simply oil and salt.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
The people of Santiago's interior — descendants of the enslaved and of those who escaped into the mountains, keepers of the batuku drum-and-thigh rhythm, the tabanka processions and the deepest form of Cabo Verdean Creole.
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Badiu people
Georgel Badiu 21.12.2024 (1).jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: ≈ 300,000 on Santiago, plus a large diaspora in Portugal and the United States
Location: Santiago island, especially the Santa Catarina, Tarrafal and Santa Cruz interior; the old capital Cidade Velha lies on the same island
Language: Kriolu of Santiago (Badiu), the most conservative variety of Cabo Verdean Creole
Language family: Portuguese-lexified creole with substantial Mande and Atlantic West African substrate
Traditional governance: Municipal government today; historically the morgado estate system, with escaped communities in the interior organising themselves outside colonial reach, and tabanka mutual-aid societies providing burial, labour exchange and celebration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Santa Catarina interior
The Assomada highlands, heartland of batuku and of the deepest Badiu speech.
Tarrafal north
Coastal north of Santiago, site of the Portuguese political prison and of strong tabanka traditions.
Praia and periphery
Urban Badiu communities in the capital's neighbourhoods, where funaná and batuku were reinvented for the city.
1 images
Clothing: Pano di terra, the narrow-strip indigo cloth woven on West African looms brought to the islands, worn wrapped at the hip for batuku; women's headwraps and layered skirts for tabanka.
Food: Cachupa, the slow-cooked maize and bean stew that is the national dish; djagacida, xerém of pounded maize, grogue cane spirit and its sweetened form pontche.
Ceremonies: Tabanka processions between saints' days with conch shells, whistles and drums, historically a coded rehearsal of freedom; batuku circles where women beat folded cloth on the thigh while one dancer takes the centre; Nho Santiago and Santa Cruz saint days.
Marriage customs: Church marriage alongside long-standing consensual union; female-headed households common, and matrifocal domestic organisation is a defining feature of Santiago society.
Initiation rites: No formal initiation; entry into a tabanka society, with its offices and obligations, has historically served as the marker of adult standing in the community.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Cabo Verde, at national rather than community level — 7 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Coarsely ground maize cooked to a soft porridge, the everyday version of what cachupa does at length. Eaten with fish, sausage or simply oil and salt.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Katxupa
Hominy corn and beans stewed for hours with whatever meat or fish there is, the dish that defines Cabo Verde. Left over and fried with an egg the next morning it becomes cachupa refogada.
Serves 8 · 3 hours 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
A fried sweet potato pastry with a spicy tuna filling, whose name means pastry with the devil inside. Sold from baskets on the street in Praia and Mindelo.
Serves Makes 12 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Sea snails or conch stewed in tomato, wine and garlic, prepared for saints' days and family Sundays on the coastal islands. Tenderising them is a matter of hours, not minutes.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes
A clear fish broth with cassava, sweet potato and green banana, eaten on every island where a boat goes out. Simple, and judged entirely on the freshness of the fish.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
also Jagacida, Rice and beans
Rice and beans cooked together with onion and bay, the Cabo Verdean everyday plate and a quicker cousin of cachupa.
Serves 6 · 1 hour, plus soaking
Sugarcane spirit distilled in the valleys of Santo Antão, drunk neat as grogue or sweetened with honey and lime as ponche. Poured at every morna session and every funeral.
Serves Makes 700ml ponche · 20 minutes, plus a week resting
The Rebelados and the MountainsHistorical tradition
Santiago's interior was where those who fled the plantations went. Its distance from the colonial coast let older African practice survive in music, language and social organisation, and produced a reputation for insubordination that the colonial administration returned as contempt: badiu itself derives from vadio, vagrant. Santiago took the insult and made it a name.
Batuku, Banned and KeptMusic history
Batuku and funaná were discouraged and at times prohibited under Portuguese rule as African and disorderly. Women kept batuku alive in the interior on nothing but folded cloth and their own bodies. After independence in 1975 both moved to the centre of national culture, and artists from Santiago carried them to European stages.
“Kel ki ka sabe, ta pergunta.”
“The one who does not know, asks.”
There is no shame in ignorance, only in pretending.
“Cachupa is eaten the next day too.”
What is made well lasts; patience improves things.
“The drum answers the hand it is given.”
You get back the energy you bring.
Creation: Catholic cosmology from the first settlement, layered with West African understandings of the dead, of luck and of the sea; the islands' uninhabited discovery means origin stories are of arrival, not of first ancestors.
Beliefs: Catholicism with vigorous saint devotion; belief in olhado, the evil eye, and in curandeiros who treat it; the dead present at wakes with singing that lasts the night.
Ancestors: Wakes with all-night singing and a strict cycle of anniversary masses; migration means many households honour dead who are buried in Lisbon or Boston.
Nossa Senhora da Luz and the island saints
Patrons of villages, processions and fishing
The ancestors
The dead of the family, remembered at wakes and anniversaries
Olhado
The envious gaze, guarded against with charms and blessing
Traditional settlements: Villages threaded along ridges and ribeira valleys, terraced fields climbing the slopes; Cidade Velha, the first European colonial town in the tropics, is a UNESCO site on the same island.
Building techniques: Dry-stone terracing and walling, basalt block construction, lime-washed walls with tile or sheet roofs; funco round stone houses with thatch in the older interior.
Village layout: Compounds strung along the contour with the ribeira watercourse below; church and square at the village centre, tabanka meeting house nearby.
Pano di terra
Textile
Narrow-strip indigo cloth, once currency in the Atlantic trade, now ceremonial.
Tabanka drums and conch horns
Instrument
Processional instruments of the mutual-aid societies.
Ferrinho and gaita
Instrument
Iron scraper and diatonic accordion, the funaná pairing.
Cidade Velha and the Pelourinho
Heritage site
The first tropical colonial town and its slave-market pillar, UNESCO listed.
1462
Portuguese settlement of Santiago; the uninhabited islands become the first Atlantic slave entrepôt.
1500s–1700s
Ribeira Grande grows rich on the trade; escaped communities establish themselves in the interior.
1800s–1940s
Repeated famines kill large parts of the population and drive mass migration to New England and São Tomé.
1975
Independence under the PAIGC; batuku and funaná move from suppression to national symbol.
Present
Diaspora remittances central; Santiago's music and Kriolu carry the deepest African inheritance in the archipelago.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources