Matoke
Green cooking bananas steamed in their own leaves until soft and yellow, then mashed. The staple of the Baganda and the food that defines central Uganda.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Kinyarwanda-speaking farmers of Uganda's volcanic south-western corner, cultivating terraced slopes under the Virunga cones at the country's highest densities, and holding a Ugandan citizenship that regional politics has repeatedly called into question.
Population: Estimated 1 million
Location: Kisoro district in south-western Uganda, in the Virunga foothills at the Rwandan and Congolese borders
Language: Rufumbira, a variety of Kinyarwanda
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (JD61, Rwanda-Rundi)
Traditional governance: Clan and lineage elders; Ugandan district administration; strong civic organisation around land, terracing and cross-border trade.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Bahutu-descended cultivators
The farming majority, working the terraced slopes.
Batutsi-descended households
Families of pastoral descent, now largely cultivating as well.
Batwa of Kisoro
Forest-origin communities, evicted from Mgahinga and Bwindi in 1991 and among Uganda's most marginalised.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; the imishanana wrapped gown at weddings, shared with Rwanda; beaded and woven ceremonial pieces.
Food: Irish potatoes, in which Kisoro is Uganda's principal producer, sorghum, beans, peas, maize, and the milk and ghee of the pastoral tradition.
Ceremonies: Marriage negotiations with the gusaba and gukwa stages; the kwita izina naming; harvest and communal terracing work parties; funeral rites over several days.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous with bridewealth in cattle where held and in cash otherwise; the negotiation is formal, staged and conducted in poetry as much as in speech.
Initiation rites: No circumcision; entry into adulthood is by marriage and land, in a district where land is the scarcest thing there is.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Uganda, at national rather than community level — 12 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Green cooking bananas steamed in their own leaves until soft and yellow, then mashed. The staple of the Baganda and the food that defines central Uganda.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Matoke katogo, Breakfast stew
Green bananas cooked in one pot with offal, beans or groundnut sauce until they absorb everything. Uganda's breakfast, argued about endlessly for what should go in it.
Serves 4 · 50 minutes
also Millet bread, Atap
Finger millet flour worked into a dense dark brown loaf, often with cassava flour for body. The staple of eastern and northern Uganda, torn and dipped into sauce.
Serves 6 · 35 minutes
Chicken, beef or groundnut sauce steamed inside a banana leaf parcel, invented in the 1880s by a cook to Kabaka Mwanga II. Opened at the table so the steam is released in front of the guest.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
An omelette rolled inside a chapati, whose name is a compression of rolled eggs. Sold from griddle stalls outside every campus and taxi park in Uganda.
Serves 2 · 30 minutes
also Ngege, Fish choma
Whole tilapia from Lake Victoria, scored, rubbed with garlic and lemon and grilled over charcoal at the landing sites. Eaten with the fingers and a heap of kachumbari.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating
also Roast plantain
Sweet plantain roasted whole over charcoal until the skin blackens and the flesh caramelises, sold at every Ugandan roadside and taxi stage.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Groundnut sauce, sometimes with mushrooms or smoked fish, steamed or simmered and served over matoke. The sauce that goes with everything at a Ugandan celebration.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Goat muchomo, Nyama choma ya mbuzi
Goat meat on sticks, salted and grilled slowly over charcoal, the fixture of every Ugandan celebration and the reason the town of Nakasongola is on the map.
Serves 8 · 1 hour 15 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating
Smoked bamboo shoots stewed with groundnut, a Bagisu dish from the slopes of Mount Elgon. Prepared at imbalu circumcision ceremonies and sold dried in Mbale market.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus soaking
also Ghee sauce, Ankole ghee sauce
Clarified butter whipped with rock salt and water until it turns white and thick, the ceremonial sauce of the Ankole and Toro pastoral kingdoms. Poured over millet bread or matoke.
Serves 6 as a sauce · 30 minutes
Sorghum or millet flour fermented into a thin sour drink, served fresh to children and left longer to turn alcoholic for adults. A Bakiga and Banyankole staple.
Serves 6 · 20 minutes, plus 1 to 3 days fermenting
Terraces on a VolcanoAgricultural history
Kisoro's slopes are cut into bench terraces from the valley floors to the forest edge, built and maintained by hand through communal work parties. Rural population densities exceed 500 people per square kilometre in places, among the highest in Africa, and holdings have fragmented to fractions of a hectare. Irish potatoes, introduced in the colonial period, are what makes the arithmetic work at all; Kisoro supplies Kampala and much of the region.
The Question of BelongingPolitical history
The Bafumbira are Kinyarwanda-speaking Ugandans whose territory was placed inside Uganda by the Anglo-German-Belgian boundary settlement of 1910. Uganda's 1995 constitution names them among the country's indigenous communities. That has not prevented periodic questioning of their citizenship during moments of tension over Rwandan refugees and over the wars in eastern Congo, and Bafumbira have been swept up in exercises directed at other people who happen to speak the same language.
The Gorillas and the BatwaConservation history
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park were gazetted in 1991, and the Batwa who had lived in those forests were evicted without land or compensation. They are now among the poorest people in Uganda, in a district where mountain gorilla tourism generates substantial revenue. Revenue-sharing schemes and Batwa-run cultural enterprises have followed; the gap between what the parks earn and what the evicted community has is the district's standing indictment.
“Akebo kajya iwabo gatwara ubusa.”
“A basket that goes home empty carries nothing.”
Reciprocity is the price of a visit.
“The hill is divided until the rain comes.”
Erosion makes neighbours of rivals.
“A small field feeds a careful house.”
On making fragmented holdings work.
Creation: Imana, the creator of Rwanda-Rundi tradition, whose name appears throughout blessing and naming formulas; the Virunga volcanoes as presences with prohibitions attached.
Beliefs: Imana invoked in everyday speech; the kubandwa possession cult of Ryangombe, historically important and now largely displaced; ancestral remembrance; Catholic and Anglican churches dominant.
Ancestors: Ancestors are named onto children and remembered at funerals; the abazimu, the spirits of the dead, are addressed when misfortune runs in a family.
Imana
The creator, present in names and daily blessing
Ryangombe
The hero-spirit of the kubandwa cult of the Rwanda-Rundi world
Volcano powers
The Virunga cones, especially Muhabura and Sabyinyo, treated with prohibition
Traditional settlements: Dense homesteads on the terraced slopes, each with its house, kitchen, granary and small stock pen, packed close along contour paths.
Building techniques: Bench terracing built by hand and maintained by work party; volcanic stone walling; mud and wattle with grass thatch, now brick and iron sheet; woven granaries.
Village layout: House and kitchen on a levelled terrace with the plot immediately below, stone walls holding the risers, and the footpath running along the contour past every door.
Bench terraces of Kisoro
Agricultural heritage
Hand-built contour terracing on volcanic slopes, maintained by communal work parties.
Agaseke basket
Craft
The tightly woven lidded basket of the Rwanda-Rundi world, given at marriage.
Inanga zither
Instrument
Trough zither accompanying sung poetry in Kinyarwanda.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Natural heritage
Virunga forest park gazetted in 1991, with the Batwa eviction as its unresolved cost.
Pre-1900
Kinyarwanda-speaking communities occupy the Virunga foothills under Rwandan and local authority.
1910
The Anglo-German-Belgian boundary settlement places the Bufumbira area inside Uganda.
1940s–1960s
Potato cultivation and terracing intensify; population density rises sharply.
1991
Mgahinga and Bwindi are gazetted; the Batwa are evicted from the forests without compensation.
1994–present
Regional upheaval brings refugees and citizenship questions; gorilla tourism becomes the district's largest earner.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources