Fufu
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Kinyarwanda-speaking cattle herders of the high plateau above Uvira, whose Congolese citizenship has been granted, withdrawn and granted again, and whose contested belonging has been at the centre of three decades of war in the eastern Congo.
Population: Estimated 50,000 to 400,000, with the figure itself politically contested
Location: The Hauts Plateaux of Uvira, Fizi and Mwenga territories in South Kivu, DR Congo, above the Ruzizi plain and Lake Tanganyika
Language: Kinyamulenge, a variety of Kinyarwanda
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (JD61, Rwanda-Rundi)
Traditional governance: Lineage elders and cattle-owning notables; a long campaign for a recognised customary entity of their own, which neighbouring communities have resisted; Congolese territorial administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Banyamulenge of the Minembwe plateau
The central highland communities.
Banyamulenge of Bijombo
Communities on the plateau's northern edge, closest to Bavira and Babembe neighbours.
Banyamulenge of Itombwe
Southern communities on the Itombwe massif's grasslands.
Diaspora communities
Substantial populations in Rwanda, Burundi, Kenya, Europe and North America since the 1990s.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; the imishanana wrapped gown at weddings, shared with the Rwanda-Rundi world; herding dress otherwise practical.
Food: Milk in quantity, fresh and soured, butter, beans and maize, sorghum, and the meat eaten at ceremony; the diet is pastoral in a region of cultivators.
Ceremonies: Marriage negotiation in the staged Rwanda-Rundi manner; cattle naming and blessing; funerals; the kubandwa cult historically, now largely displaced by Christianity.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in cattle; marriage within the community has been reinforced by the political situation, which cuts both ways in the argument about belonging.
Initiation rites: No circumcision traditionally; adulthood is marked by a herd and a household; the transfer of named cattle marks a young man's establishment.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Democratic Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 12 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Congolese beans, Haricots
Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée
Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Beignets
Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.
Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée
Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels
Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Saka saka
Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe
Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Palm wine
Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
also Congolese maize spirit
Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.
Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling
The Question of CitizenshipPolitical history
Kinyarwanda-speaking communities have lived in the eastern Congo since before the colonial borders were drawn, and further populations arrived as colonial labour transfers and as refugees. Congolese nationality law has recognised, then withdrawn, then partially restored their citizenship: the 1972 law granted it, the 1981 law effectively withdrew it, and the 2004 law recognises as Congolese those who were on the territory at independence in 1960. The Banyamulenge case sits at the sharpest point of that history, and their standing is argued in Congolese politics as though it were still undecided.
1996 and What FollowedMilitary history
The First Congo War began in 1996 with a Banyamulenge-led revolt in South Kivu, supported by Rwanda and Uganda, against a Zairean government that had moved to strip and expel them. The revolt became the AFDL, which took Kinshasa in 1997. A second war followed in 1998. Banyamulenge fighters were prominent in both, which secured the community's physical survival and permanently damaged its political position: the association with Rwandan intervention is now the first thing said about them in Congolese public argument.
MinembweContemporary conflict
Minembwe, on the high plateau, has been besieged, burned and fought over since 2017 by Mai-Mai militias drawn from Babembe, Bafuliru and Banyindu communities and by Banyamulenge self-defence forces, with Burundian and Rwandan armed groups involved. Tens of thousands have been displaced, cattle herds destroyed and villages emptied on all sides. The 2019 elevation of Minembwe to a commune with a Munyamulenge mayor provoked a national outcry and was partly reversed. The plateau remains one of the least accessible and most violent places in the Congo.
“The herd knows the plateau even when the map does not.”
On presence against paperwork.
“A cow given makes a relative; a cow taken makes a war.”
On cattle in the plateau's politics.
“The one asked to prove he is home is already not at home.”
A Banyamulenge remark on the citizenship question.
Creation: Imana as the creator, in the Rwanda-Rundi pattern; the kubandwa cult of Ryangombe historically; the plateau itself as the community's defining place.
Beliefs: Protestant Christianity, particularly Pentecostal, now dominant and closely bound up with community organisation in displacement; Catholic presence; the older kubandwa practice largely ended.
Ancestors: Ancestors are named onto children and remembered at funerals; the community's claim to the plateau is argued through the graves and the herds of preceding generations.
Imana
The creator, present in names and blessing
Ryangombe
The hero-spirit of the older kubandwa cult
Abazimu
Spirits of the dead, addressed in the older practice
Traditional settlements: Villages of rectangular and round houses on the high grassland with cattle enclosures, at 2,000 to 3,000 metres, in a landscape of few trees and hard winters by Congolese standards.
Building techniques: Pole and mud with grass thatch and iron sheet; thorn and pole cattle enclosures; woven milk vessels and churns; drystone walling where stone allows.
Village layout: Houses around a cattle enclosure, with the grazing spread across the surrounding plateau and the church at the settlement's centre.
Ankole-type cattle
Livestock heritage
Long-horned herds that are the community's wealth, its identity and its target.
Carved milk vessels
Craft
Wooden containers and churns of the Rwanda-Rundi pastoral tradition.
Minembwe plateau
Contested site
The high grassland at the centre of the community's territorial claim and of the current conflict.
Itombwe massif
Natural heritage
Montane forest and grassland of exceptional biodiversity, and a refuge for armed groups.
Pre-1900
Kinyarwanda-speaking herders settle the high plateau above the Ruzizi and Lake Tanganyika.
1960–1981
Congolese nationality is granted in 1972 and effectively withdrawn in 1981.
1996–1997
A Banyamulenge-led revolt begins the First Congo War; the AFDL takes Kinshasa.
2004
Congolese nationality law recognises as citizens those present at independence in 1960.
2017–present
Sustained conflict on the Hauts Plateaux displaces tens of thousands on all sides; Minembwe becomes a national political controversy.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources