Ubugali
Cassava or maize flour cooked stiff, eaten with beans, greens or fish. The Rwandan table's fixed point, taken by hand and dipped.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Rwanda's first inhabitants — forest hunters turned potters, excluded before the genocide, killed in it in proportions comparable to the Tutsi, and excluded again by a post-genocide policy that has abolished ethnic categories without abolishing their effects.

Batwa of Rwanda people
A visit to the Batwa people in Rwanda in the village of Kiguri on the Congo Nile Trail.jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: Estimated 25,000–35,000, under one percent of Rwanda
Location: Scattered across all provinces, historically at the edges of other communities and near the Nyungwe and Volcanoes forests
Language: Kinyarwanda
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (JD61)
Traditional governance: No separate structure; officially designated a historically marginalised community rather than an ethnic group, since Rwandan law does not recognise ethnicity; represented through cooperatives and advocacy organisations.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Potter communities
The majority, whose livelihood was clay until the market collapsed.
Forest-evicted families
Households removed from Nyungwe and the Volcanoes when the parks were gazetted.
Cooperative members
Groups organised since 2000 around pottery, agriculture and advocacy.
1 images
Clothing: Ordinary Rwandan dress; performance dress of hide and beads retained for the dance traditions.
Food: Beans, sweet potato and cassava as elsewhere in Rwanda, with markedly worse food security; historically forest game, honey and tubers.
Ceremonies: Dance and song traditions historically performed at other communities' celebrations; funerals and naming rites following general Rwandan practice.
Marriage customs: Marriage with non-Batwa Rwandans remains rare and socially penalised; bridewealth minimal given widespread poverty.
Initiation rites: No distinct cycle; pottery apprenticeship within the family was the practical formation, now disrupted by the trade's collapse.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Rwanda, at national rather than community level — 9 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Cassava or maize flour cooked stiff, eaten with beans, greens or fish. The Rwandan table's fixed point, taken by hand and dipped.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Pounded cassava leaves with aubergine, spinach and groundnut paste, cooked long and dark. Rwanda's most characteristic dish, served with ubugali or rice.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Potato and beef stew
Potatoes and beef simmered with celery, leek and tomato into a straightforward, well-made stew. The dinner of the Rwandan highlands, where the potato is king.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Goat skewers with fried potatoes, the standard order at every Kigali bar. Ordered by the number of sticks and eaten with a bottle of Primus.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating
also Fried pork, Kabenz
Pork boiled then fried hard in its own fat until the edges crisp, served with a bowl of chilli and a beer. The dish that fills Kigali's bar terraces on a Friday.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Plantain stewed with meat, beans and vegetables in one pot, made for family gatherings and for guests. A dish of the banana-growing hills.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Pumpkin cooked with beans until both collapse into a thick sweet-savoury mash, an old dish of the countryside and a favourite of the hungry season.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Banana beer fermented with roasted sorghum, drunk at every ceremony and negotiation. In the old kingdom it was offered at every stage of a marriage agreement.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
also Milk tea, African tea
Tea brewed directly in milk with ginger, from a country that grows some of the world's best tea and exports nearly all of it.
Serves 4 · 20 minutes
Killed and UncountedHistorical account
Estimates suggest that a very large proportion of Rwanda's Batwa were killed in the 1994 genocide, both as targets and as people caught between forces, and Batwa also participated in the killing in places. They were not a named target of the ideology, which is part of why their losses went largely unrecorded, and they have been largely absent from commemoration and compensation.
Evicted for GorillasConservation history
Batwa families were removed from the Volcanoes and Nyungwe forests when the national parks were established, without land or compensation. The parks now generate very large tourism revenues. Community revenue-sharing schemes exist, and Batwa organisations argue that they have not addressed the original loss.
“The pot is bought and the potter is not seen.”
Labour valued, person not.
“We danced at every wedding and were invited to none.”
The exclusion in one line.
“The forest was our field.”
Loss of the older livelihood.
Creation: Shared Kinyarwanda cosmology of Imana, with the tradition that the Batwa were the first people placed in the land.
Beliefs: Imana and the abazimu ancestral dead; kubandwa possession historically; Christianity now general.
Ancestors: Lineage dead honoured in household practice; the loss of forest access is narrated as a break in the ancestral relationship.
Imana
The creator
Abazimu
Ancestral dead of the lineage
Forest spirits
Powers of the mountain forests from which the community was removed
Traditional settlements: Small clusters on marginal or borrowed land at the edge of other communities; government-built housing in some resettlement schemes.
Building techniques: Mud and wattle with grass or sheet roofing; pottery kilns and open firing pits.
Village layout: Compact clusters around shared clay-working space rather than the dispersed hillside pattern of Rwandan settlement.
Coil-built pottery
Craft
Cooking and storage vessels, the community's defining product.
Dance drums and regalia
Performance
Objects of the performance traditions long hired by others.
Hunting equipment
Heritage
Bows and nets of the forest livelihood now closed off.
Cooperative production records
Archive
Documentation of organised responses to the pottery market's collapse.
Pre-1500
Batwa forest communities occupy the Great Lakes highlands.
1600s–1900
Incorporation into the Rwandan kingdom as court performers, potters and clients.
1920s–1990s
Forest reserve and park creation removes remaining hunting access.
1994
Very heavy losses in the genocide, largely unrecorded in commemoration.
2000s–present
Ethnic categories abolished in law; Batwa organisations campaign on land, schooling and the pottery trade.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources