Pounded Yam and Egusi Soup
White yam pounded to a smooth elastic mound with a soup of ground melon seeds, greens and meat. The centrepiece of Yoruba and Igbo tables alike.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
The plateau farmers of Jos — tin-country people of the Nzem festival and the mado initiation, whose terraced highland farms and stone-walled compounds held the cool heart of Nigeria's Middle Belt.
Berom people
Girls of a small berom village in Jos City.JPG · Wikimedia Commons
Population: ≈ 1–1.5 million on the Jos Plateau, Plateau State, Nigeria
Location: The Jos Plateau of central Nigeria — Jos South, Riyom, Barkin Ladi and the highland farmland around the city of Jos
Language: Berom (Birom)
Language family: Niger-Congo → Benue-Congo → Plateau
Traditional governance: Historically village-based under lineage elders, priest-chiefs and age-grades; the Gbong Gwom Jos paramountcy created in the colonial era now heads the Berom traditional council; land is held by lineages with strong communal rules over the terraced farms.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Gyel, Du, Vwang
Southern Berom districts of the Jos South highlands.
Riyom, Ganawuri (Aten)
Southwestern communities, the latter a related Plateau people.
Foron, Fan, Heipang
Central plateau districts of Barkin Ladi.
Related Plateau peoples
Afizere, Anaguta, Irigwe, Rukuba and others of the Jos highlands with parallel traditions.
2 images
Clothing: Woven cotton and leather historically, with beads and iron ornament; the distinctive Berom striped cloth and cap now worn at ceremony; dancers in fibre skirts, bells and feathered headdresses.
Food: Acha (fonio) — the plateau's ancient small grain — with millet, sorghum, potatoes and beans from the cool highland farms; kunu drinks; the Jos plateau's temperate crops making it Nigeria's vegetable basket.
Ceremonies: Nzem Berom — the annual cultural festival of harvest thanksgiving, dance and unity; mado initiation for young men; the vwana and other seasonal rites; the badu ancestral and fertility ceremonies.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth in livestock, grain and labour, historically including years of farm service to the bride's family; clan exogamy; elaborate escorting of the bride with song and dance.
Initiation rites: The mado — the young men's initiation into adulthood with instruction, ordeal and the assumption of farming and defence duties; age-grades organising communal labour on the terraces and the defence of the highland approaches.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Nigeria, at national rather than community level — 10 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
White yam pounded to a smooth elastic mound with a soup of ground melon seeds, greens and meat. The centrepiece of Yoruba and Igbo tables alike.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Rice swallow
Soft short-grain rice cooked and beaten into a smooth mound, the northern Nigerian staple eaten with miyan kuka or miyan taushe.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
Long-grain rice cooked in a reduced pepper and tomato base until the bottom of the pot lightly scorches, which is where the smoky flavour comes from and is not a mistake.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 20 minutes
also Baobab leaf soup, Luru
Dried baobab leaf powder cooked into a dark, faintly slippery soup with dried fish and locust bean. The Hausa soup of northern Nigeria, eaten with tuwo.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Thin beef skewers rubbed in yaji, a groundnut and chilli spice mix, grilled over open charcoal by Hausa mallams and served on newspaper with raw onion and tomato.
Serves Makes 12 · 40 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating
also White soup
A pale peppery soup of catfish thickened with pounded yam and scented with uziza and ehuru. Made in Anambra for a woman who has just given birth, and served at important occasions.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Steamed bean pudding of peeled black-eyed peas, peppers and onion, wrapped in leaves and studded with egg and fish. Eaten alone or beside jollof at every party.
Serves 8 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours soaking
also Yoruba spinach stew
Shredded greens cooked into a base of blended pepper, onion and palm oil with assorted meat and stockfish. The Yoruba vegetable soup, and the one Lagosians argue about most.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Ofe akwu, Palm nut soup
Palm nut pulp cooked with catfish and the Delta's particular spices — beletientien, oburunbebe stick, ataiko — into a thick orange soup. The Urhobo and Isoko signature.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Hibiscus infused with pineapple, ginger and clove, bottled and sold cold at every Nigerian gathering. The non-alcoholic drink of choice at weddings.
Serves 8 · 40 minutes, plus chilling
The Terraces on the Cold HillsAgricultural tradition
The Berom farmed a plateau 1,200 metres up — cool, misty and defensible — by cutting stone-faced terraces into the slopes and rotating acha, millet and beans through them. The terraces held the thin soil against the rains and let a dense population live where raiders on horseback could not easily come. The plateau's stone walls are the Berom's oldest signature.
The Tin Beneath the FarmsModern history
From 1902 European prospectors found tin in the Berom's streams and hills; mining companies took farmland, imported labour and left the plateau pocked with ponds and spoil heaps. The Berom's 20th century became a long argument about land — who owned the surface, who owned what lay beneath, and who would be left when the ore ran out.
Nzem, When the Plateau GathersFestival tradition
At Nzem Berom the districts come with their drums, their dancers in bells and feathers, their new harvest and their grievances; the Gbong Gwom presides, blessings are given, and the nation counts itself. In a state that has known bitter conflict, the festival is also a deliberate act of holding together.
“The terrace holds the soil that feeds the child.”
Patient infrastructure sustains generations.
“Cold hills make strong backs.”
Hard conditions build capable people.
“What is under the ground still stands on someone's farm.”
Resource wealth cannot be separated from the people above it.
Creation: Dagwi, the supreme God, created the world and gives rain and increase; the earth and the ancestors govern fertility, honoured at lineage shrines and sacred groves; priest-chiefs perform the rites that open the farming year.
Beliefs: Dagwi above; ancestral and earth spirits at shrines and groves; priest-chiefs and diviners mediating rain and harvest; masquerade and initiation societies; today Christianity is overwhelmingly dominant on the plateau, with festival and initiation continuing as cultural heritage.
Ancestors: Lineage ancestors are honoured at compound shrines and in the farming rites; land rights descend through them, making ancestry and agriculture inseparable on the plateau.
Dagwi
The supreme creator God, giver of rain and harvest
Ancestral spirits
The lineage dead honoured at shrines for fertility and protection
Earth and grove spirits
Powers of the sacred groves and farmland, addressed by priest-chiefs
Traditional settlements: Compact highland villages of round thatched huts within stone-walled compounds, set among terraced fields; granaries of mud and thatch; defensive siting on ridges and rocky outcrops.
Building techniques: Dry-stone walling for compounds and terraces — the plateau's abundant granite put to use; mud-and-thatch huts with conical roofs; stone-lined paths and cattle enclosures.
Village layout: Compound within its stone wall, huts around a swept yard; terraces stepping down the slopes; sacred groves and shrine rocks kept apart from cultivation.
Stone terraces and compound walls
Architecture & engineering
Dry-stone farming terraces and enclosures — the plateau's enduring built heritage.
Nzem festival regalia
Performance
Bells, feathered headdresses and fibre costumes of the Berom dance troupes.
Acha (fonio) cultivation
Agricultural heritage
One of Africa's most ancient cultivated grains, still central on the plateau.
Iron hoes and smithing
Tools
The plateau's iron tradition, tied to its rich mineral geology.
Pre-1800
Plateau peoples including the Berom settle the Jos highlands, developing terraced farming and stone compounds in a defensible refuge zone.
19th c.
The plateau's rocky highlands resist Fulani jihad expansion, remaining largely non-Muslim — the making of the 'Middle Belt' religious frontier.
1902–1960
Tin mining transforms the plateau; Jos becomes a colonial mining city; large-scale land alienation and labour migration reshape Berom society.
1960s–2000s
Independence; Plateau State created; Jos grows into a major city and educational centre on Berom land.
Present
The plateau has suffered recurrent communal conflict over land and identity; Nzem Berom and the traditional council work to sustain unity and heritage.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources