Taita
also Injera
Fermented teff flatbread, the plate and the cutlery of every Eritrean meal. Sour, spongy and torn to pick up whatever is spooned onto it.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
The people of Keren — an Agaw-speaking island in a Semitic and Cushitic sea, half Muslim and half Christian, whose language is the last Agaw survival in Eritrea and whose women's hair and jewellery are the country's most photographed.
Population: Around 100,000, concentrated around Keren
Location: The Anseba region of central Eritrea, centred on the town of Keren
Language: Blin (Bilen), an Agaw language of the Central Cushitic group
Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Cushitic → Agaw
Traditional governance: Lineage and village elders with a written customary code; Eritrean regional administration today.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Bet Tarqe
One of the two principal divisions of the community.
Bet Tawqe
The other division, with its own lineage structure.
Muslim and Christian households
The community is split roughly evenly between Islam and Catholic or Orthodox Christianity, within the same lineages.
Clothing: Women's brightly coloured dresses with heavy gold and silver nose rings and elaborately braided and buttered hair; men's white cotton; the dress is distinctive enough to identify the community at a glance.
Food: Sorghum and millet, taita flatbread with stews, dairy from cattle and goats; the Anseba's farming is rainfed and precarious.
Ceremonies: Weddings with days of celebration and distinctive women's dress; both Islamic and Christian festivals observed within the same extended families; the recitation of customary law at assemblies.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth negotiated between lineages; marriage across the religious divide is complicated but the lineages span both.
Initiation rites: Quranic or church schooling depending on household; the customary code's provisions learned as a mark of adult standing.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Eritrea, at national rather than community level — 8 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
also Injera
Fermented teff flatbread, the plate and the cutlery of every Eritrean meal. Sour, spongy and torn to pick up whatever is spooned onto it.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also Spiced lentils, Birsen
Brown or red lentils cooked with berbere and onion until thick, the everyday Eritrean stew and the fasting-day mainstay.
Serves 6 · 55 minutes
Beef stewed slowly in berbere and onion until the sauce goes deep red and the meat surrenders. Served on taita with a hard-boiled egg, and Eritrea's central dish.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes
also Ambasha
A slightly sweet celebration bread scored into a wheel pattern before baking, studded with raisins and scented with cardamom. Broken at gatherings and with coffee.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes
Chicken in berbere sauce with whole eggs, the dish made when a guest arrives or a family celebrates. The chicken is jointed into twelve pieces by custom.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Powdered chickpea or broad bean flour cooked into a smooth spiced purée, the fasting food of the Orthodox calendar and the everyday food of most households.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Mild vegetable stew, Alicha birsen
The mild counterpart to zigni: potatoes, carrots and cabbage stewed with turmeric and no chilli, for children, for fasting and for anyone who has had enough berbere.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
The coffee ceremony: beans roasted, ground and brewed in a jebena in front of the guests, poured in three rounds over an hour or more. Refusing to stay for all three is a slight.
Serves 4, three rounds · 1 hour
One People, Two ReligionsSocial account
The Bilen are roughly half Muslim and half Christian, and the division runs through lineages rather than between them: brothers may follow different faiths and share the same customary law and the same funerals. Keren's skyline carries a mosque and a Catholic cathedral within sight of each other. It is one of the Horn's clearer demonstrations that religion and ethnicity are separable.
The Last Agaw in EritreaLanguage account
Agaw languages once spanned the Ethiopian and Eritrean highlands before Semitic expansion; Blin is the last of them in Eritrea. It is written in both Ge'ez script and Latin, taught in some primary schools, and classified as vulnerable. It preserves grammatical features that tell linguists a good deal about what the highlands sounded like before Tigrinya and Amharic.
“One mother, two prayers.”
The community's religious division within a single family.
“The law is older than the mosque and the church.”
Customary code preceding both faiths.
“Gold on a woman is her own.”
Jewellery as personal rather than household property.
Creation: Islamic and Christian cosmologies held side by side; older Agaw traditions surviving in the customary code and in beliefs attached to particular places.
Beliefs: Sunni Islam and Catholic and Orthodox Christianity; the written customary code carrying quasi-sacred authority; belief in the evil eye and in protective amulets across both faiths.
Ancestors: Lineage genealogy governs land and standing; ancestors are honoured across both religious traditions with broadly similar practice.
Allah / God
Named in either idiom depending on household
The saints and Sufi figures
Venerated at tombs and churches across the community
The customary code
Not divine, but treated as inherited authority binding on all Bilen
Traditional settlements: Keren's Italian colonial core with its market and cathedral; villages of stone and mud housing in the surrounding hills.
Building techniques: Stone and mud construction with flat or thatched roofs; Italian colonial masonry in Keren; terracing on the hillsides.
Village layout: Village around a meeting space with fields terraced below; the town around its market, mosque and cathedral.
Bilen gold nose rings
Craft
Large gold rings worn by women, among Eritrea's most recognisable ornaments.
Blin-language publications
Language heritage
Texts in the last Agaw language of Eritrea, in Ge'ez and Latin scripts.
Keren's Mariam Dearit shrine
Heritage site
A Marian shrine inside a baobab tree, drawing Christian and Muslim visitors alike.
Written customary code
Archive
Recorded Bilen law on injury, marriage and inheritance.
Pre-1500
Agaw-speaking populations occupy the highlands before Semitic expansion; the Bilen settle the Anseba.
1800s
Egyptian and then Italian pressure; Catholic missions establish themselves at Keren.
1890–1941
Italian colonial rule; Keren becomes a regional centre.
1941
The Battle of Keren, one of the fiercest of the East African campaign, is fought in the surrounding hills.
1961–1991
The liberation war; the Anseba sees heavy fighting and displacement.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources