Banku
Fermented maize and cassava dough cooked to a smooth sour ball, eaten with okro stew or grilled tilapia and pepper. Sour, dense and shaped by hand into a rounded mound.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
Farmers of Sandema in Ghana's Upper East who defeated the Zabarima slave raiders in the 1890s, and who re-enact that defeat every December in the Feok festival — the only West African festival built entirely around the memory of resisting enslavement.
Population: Estimated 150,000 to 250,000
Location: Builsa North and Builsa South districts of the Upper East Region of Ghana, around Sandema, Fumbisi and Wiaga
Language: Buli
Language family: Niger-Congo → Gur → Mabia (Oti-Volta)
Traditional governance: The Sandemnaab as paramount chief with divisional chiefs beneath, alongside earth priests (teng-nyono) with ritual authority over the land; Ghanaian district administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Builsa of Sandema
The paramountcy's centre.
Builsa of Wiaga and Kadema
Eastern communities.
Builsa of Fumbisi and Chuchuliga
Southern and western communities on the Sisili plain.
Clothing: The smock and the war dress of the Feok — quivers, bows, horns, animal skins and the war leader's regalia; contemporary dress otherwise.
Food: Millet and sorghum as tuo zaafi, groundnuts, bambara beans, guinea fowl, rice from the Fumbisi valley, and pito millet beer.
Ceremonies: Feok, the December harvest and victory festival with its war dances; funerals over several days; earth-shrine rites; harvest observances.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in cattle and goods; the negotiation runs through both lineages.
Initiation rites: Boys' entry into adult labour and the war-dance groupings; funerals and Feok, rather than initiation, are the community's principal collective performances.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Ghana, at national rather than community level — 9 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Fermented maize and cassava dough cooked to a smooth sour ball, eaten with okro stew or grilled tilapia and pepper. Sour, dense and shaped by hand into a rounded mound.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also TZ, Sagim
Maize and cassava flour cooked into a soft swallow, the staple of northern Ghana, eaten with an okra or ayoyo soup that has to be slippery enough to swallow it.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Rice cooked in a reduced tomato and pepper base, made in Ghana with aromatic rice and a lighter hand on the purée. The rivalry with Nigeria over this dish is conducted with total seriousness.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Kormi, Dokono
Fermented maize dough half-cooked, wrapped in maize husks and boiled into dense sour balls. The Ga and Fante staple, eaten with fried fish and pepper sauce.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
Rice and beans cooked with dried sorghum leaves, which turn it a deep reddish brown, sold from before dawn with shito, gari, spaghetti and boiled egg piled on.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
also Spiced fried plantain
Ripe plantain cubed, tossed in ginger, chilli and spice and deep-fried, sold from pans on Accra street corners after dark and eaten with roasted peanuts.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
Pounded cassava and plantain with a clear peppery soup of goat or fish. Sunday food, and the dish most Ghanaians name when asked what they would want if they were far from home.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Black-eyed peas stewed in palm oil with tomato, served with fried ripe plantain and gari. Named twice for red: the palm oil and the tomato.
Serves 6 · 1 hour, plus overnight soaking
Hibiscus infused with pineapple skin, ginger and cloves, sold chilled in bottles at every junction in Accra. Ghana's version leans heavily on the ginger.
Serves 8 · 30 minutes, plus chilling
FeokFestival tradition
Every December the Builsa gather at Sandema in war dress — bows, quivers, horns, smocks and skins — and dance the defeat of Babatu and Samori's Zabarima slave raiders, who were driven out of Builsa country in the 1890s. The festival is simultaneously a harvest thanksgiving and a re-enactment of resistance, and it is unusual in West Africa for making the memory of successfully fighting enslavement its explicit centre rather than mourning the enslaved.
Babatu's DefeatMilitary history
The Zabarima, Zarma-speaking raiders from the Niger under Babatu, dominated the Upper Volta basin in the 1880s and 1890s, raiding for slaves across what is now northern Ghana and southern Burkina Faso. The Builsa, fighting with poisoned arrows from their fortified compounds and using the broken ground of the Sisili valley, defeated them decisively. Neighbouring communities that did not are still identified in the region by the settlements the raids emptied.
The Fumbisi Rice ValleyAgricultural history
The Fumbisi valley on the Sisili floodplain is one of northern Ghana's principal rice-growing areas, worked by Builsa farmers and by seasonal migrants from across the north. The valley floods, the rice is grown on the recession, and the crop has become the district's cash economy. It has also drawn Fulani herders and outside investors, and the resulting competition over land and water is the district's most persistent local dispute.
“The arrow that was kept is the arrow that saved the village.”
On preparedness, and on the Feok's meaning.
“We dance what we survived.”
On the festival.
“The valley floods and the granary fills.”
On the Fumbisi rice.
Creation: Naawen as the high god; the earth (teng) as the central power, addressed through the earth priest; ancestral spirits at lineage shrines; named groves and pools with prohibitions.
Beliefs: Earth-shrine rites; ancestral offerings at household shrines; divination; Catholic Christianity strongly established since the 1920s, with the earth priesthood continuing alongside.
Ancestors: Ancestors are addressed at household shrines with distinctive clay figures and pots; the earth priest's descent is the basis of his authority over the land.
Naawen
The high god
Teng
The earth, addressed through the earth priest for fertility and oaths
Ancestral spirits
Addressed at household and lineage shrines
Traditional settlements: Dispersed compounds of round huts linked by walls into enclosed defensible units, sited across the farmland with granaries and stock inside.
Building techniques: Mud and pole huts with conical thatch, linked into compounds with a single entrance; granaries within; ancestral shrine pots and figures modelled in clay.
Village layout: A linked compound with one controlled entrance, animals and granaries inside, millet fields around, and the earth shrine at an uncleared site.
Feok war regalia
Regalia
Bows, quivers, horns, skins and smocks worn at the December victory festival.
Ancestral shrine figures
Ritual object
Modelled clay pots and figures at household ancestral shrines.
Linked-hut compound
Architecture
Round huts joined into a single defensible enclosed unit.
Fumbisi rice valley
Agricultural heritage
Floodplain rice cultivation on the Sisili, the district's cash economy.
Pre-1800
Gur-speaking communities settle the Sisili basin under earth-priest authority.
1880s–1890s
Zabarima raiders under Babatu dominate the region; the Builsa defeat them.
1900s–1957
British administration; the Northern Territories are run as a labour reserve; Catholic missions establish.
1974–present
The Feok festival is formalised as an annual public celebration at Sandema.
2000s–present
Fumbisi rice expands; competition over valley land and water intensifies.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources