Foutou
also Foufou
Yam, plantain or cassava pounded in a wooden mortar to a smooth elastic dough, eaten with soup. Two people work the pestle and the turning between blows in a rhythm.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes
The traders whose language became a lingua franca — Mande merchants who carried Islam and commerce along the kola routes for six centuries, built the mud mosques of the northern savanna, and whose name in Côte d'Ivoire came to mean northerner and, for a time, foreigner.
Population: Several million speakers, far more than the number of ethnic Dioula
Location: Northern Côte d'Ivoire — Kong, Odienné, Korhogo and Bouaké — extending into Burkina Faso and Mali
Language: Dioula (Jula), a Manding variety closely related to Bambara and Malinke, used as a trade lingua franca across the region
Language family: Niger-Congo → Mande
Traditional governance: Merchant lineages and Islamic scholarly families; the Kong empire of the eighteenth century was their principal state; today Ivorian communal administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Kong lineages
Descendants of the eighteenth-century trading empire's ruling and scholarly families.
Odienné and Korhogo communities
Northern trading towns on the routes to Mali and Burkina Faso.
Dioula speakers
The far larger population using the language for trade without claiming the ethnicity.
Clothing: Embroidered boubous and caps; indigo-dyed cloth from the northern dye pits; women's wrappers with gold.
Food: Rice and millet with groundnut and okra sauces; the northern kitchen differs markedly from the forest south's yam and cassava.
Ceremonies: Islamic festivals with horse displays; Quranic school graduations; weddings with days of drumming and balafon; the kola trading seasons.
Marriage customs: Islamic marriage with bridewealth; trading families use marriage to bind commercial networks across the region.
Initiation rites: Quranic school, in which Kong had a continental reputation; apprenticeship in trade, with young men sent to relatives' businesses in distant towns.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Côte d'Ivoire, Burkina Faso and Mali, at national rather than community level — 24 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
8 dishes
also Foufou
Yam, plantain or cassava pounded in a wooden mortar to a smooth elastic dough, eaten with soup. Two people work the pestle and the turning between blows in a rhythm.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes
Chicken and vegetables sealed in a canari pot and cooked in their own steam with almost no added liquid, shaken rather than stirred. The most characteristically Ivorian dish there is.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Fermented grated cassava steamed into light sour couscous, served with a whole grilled fish and raw onion. The lunch of Abidjan, eaten off a plastic table under an awning.
Serves 4 · 40 minutes
also Attiéké thon, Garba kedjenou
Fried tuna on a heap of attiéké with raw onion, tomato and chilli, sold from wooden kiosks by Nigerien vendors across Abidjan. The cheapest full meal in the city.
Serves 4 · 35 minutes
also Fried plantain, Aloko
Ripe plantain fried in palm oil and served with a raw onion and chilli relish, sold in the evening on every Abidjan street by the women called allocodrome vendors.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Palm nut pulp cooked down with meat, smoked fish and crab into a deep orange sauce, served with rice or foutou. Made for family Sundays and celebrations across the south.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
A thin, clear, fiercely peppery broth of fish and aubergine, from the lagoon country. Named for what it is not: no palm oil, no groundnut, no thickening at all.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
also Jus d'oseille
Hibiscus steeped with mint and pineapple and served ice cold in sealed plastic sachets from every cooler box in Abidjan. The default soft drink of West Africa.
Serves 8 · 30 minutes, plus chilling
8 dishes
also Saghbo
Stiff millet or sorghum porridge, the daily food of most of the country, torn off in lumps and dipped in sauce. Eaten with the right hand from a shared bowl.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Rice cooked in a rich tomato and meat broth until it absorbs everything, the West African one-pot in its Burkinabè form. The name means fat rice and is not an exaggeration.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Skewers of beef or mutton grilled over charcoal and rolled in a peppery groundnut spice mix, sold from braziers on every street corner in Ouagadougou after dark.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating
also Bean cake, Gonre
Black-eyed beans ground with onion and chilli, wrapped in leaf and steamed into a firm savoury cake. Burkina Faso's breakfast and market food.
Serves 8 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Free-range chicken, so called because it has spent its life running about, marinated and grilled whole over charcoal. Served flattened with onion sauce for guests and celebrations.
Serves 4 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Acacia seeds, Zaamné
The small green seeds of a wild acacia, boiled long and cooked with beef and onion. A Burkinabè delicacy that is expensive, laborious and served to people you want to impress.
Serves 6 · 3 hours
Wild leaves, rice and soumbala cooked together into a dark green one-pot, from the Mossi plateau. Soumbala is fermented néré seed and gives the dish its powerful savoury depth.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Millet beer, Chapalo
Sorghum beer brewed by women and sold in courtyards marked with an upturned calabash on a pole. It is drunk within a day or two, still fermenting, from a shared gourd.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
8 dishes
also Toh
Millet or sorghum porridge cooked stiff and eaten with a leaf or okra sauce, the daily food across the Sahelian belt. Torn off in pieces and dipped with the right hand.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Maafe, Groundnut stew
Meat in a thick groundnut and tomato sauce over rice, Mali's national dish and the ancestor of groundnut stews from Senegal to Cameroon. The oil rising to the top is how you know it is done.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
A sauce of powdered sesame leaves with meat and tomato, served over rice or tô. Sold from lunch pots in Bamako, and unmistakable for its slightly slippery texture.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Nile perch from the Niger, stuffed and grilled whole, served with fried plantain and a sharp onion salad. The dish Bamako restaurants put in front of a visitor.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
Millet couscous with camel or mutton and curdled milk, from the Tuareg and Songhai north. The sour milk poured over at the end is what distinguishes it.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Chicken groundnut sauce
Chicken in groundnut sauce with sweet potato and cabbage, the Bamako version of the Sahel's great sauce, served over rice.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Hibiscus juice, called dabileni in Bambara, sold from coolers and street-corner freezers across Bamako. The same drink as bissap and sobolo, with a Malian preference for very sweet.
Serves 8 · 30 minutes, plus chilling
also Thiakry, Millet yoghurt
Steamed millet grain in sweetened soured milk with vanilla and nutmeg, drunk cold from a plastic sachet at every Malian roadside.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes, plus chilling
KongHistorical account
The Dioula empire of Kong, founded around 1710, controlled the trade between the forest's kola and gold and the Sahel's salt and cloth, and became a centre of Islamic scholarship with a great mud mosque. Samori Touré destroyed it in 1897 during his war with the French. The mosque was rebuilt; the city never recovered its position.
When a Trade Word Became a Political OneContemporary account
In Côte d'Ivoire, Dioula came to mean not just the language or the people but northerners generally, and then Muslims, and then — during the ivoirité years — people whose citizenship was questioned. Identity papers were demanded, voters struck from rolls, and a war followed. A word that had meant trader for six centuries was turned into a marker of exclusion.
“The trader's home is the road.”
Mobility as livelihood.
“Kola travels further than the hand that picked it.”
The long-distance trade's logic.
“One language in the market is one price in the market.”
Trade language as commercial infrastructure.
Creation: Islamic cosmology, carried along the trade routes since the fourteenth century; older Mande traditions surviving in the epic repertoire.
Beliefs: Sunni Maliki Islam with strong scholarly and Sufi traditions; marabout amulets and protective writing; the Mande epic tradition performed by jeli griots.
Ancestors: Merchant and scholarly lineages keep detailed genealogies; the Kong dynasty's descent is still recited.
Allah
The one God
Marabouts
Islamic specialists producing blessing and protective writing
The Mande ancestors
Sundiata and the founding figures recited by griots
Traditional settlements: Northern towns of banco housing around a mud mosque and market; the Sudanese-style mosques of Kong, Kaouara and Tengréla.
Building techniques: Banco mud construction with projecting timber (toron); Sudano-Sahelian mosque building with buttresses and pinnacles; indigo dye pits.
Village layout: Town around the mosque and market with merchant compounds nearby; caravanserai space for visiting traders.
Sudanese-style mosques of northern Côte d'Ivoire
Heritage site
Eight mud mosques inscribed by UNESCO in 2021.
Indigo-dyed cloth
Textile
Cloth from the northern dye pits, traded across the region.
Balafon
Instrument
Wooden xylophone of the Mande world, central to Dioula celebration.
Kola trade goods
Trade heritage
The forest nut that drove six centuries of northern commerce.
1300s–1600s
Mande traders carry Islam and commerce south along the kola routes.
c. 1710
The Dioula empire of Kong is founded, becoming a trade and scholarly centre.
1897
Samori Touré destroys Kong during his war with the French.
1900s–1990s
Dioula becomes northern Côte d'Ivoire's lingua franca and a trade language across the region.
2021
Eight Sudanese-style mosques of northern Côte d'Ivoire are inscribed by UNESCO.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources