Kisra
Paper-thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate with a wooden strip and peeled off in sheets. Eaten under every Sudanese stew, and torn rather than cut.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
The Beja of the Red Sea hills — camel herders whose hair the British called fuzzy-wuzzy and whose ancestors broke a British infantry square at Tamai, and whose language descends from the speech of the ancient Blemmyes.
Population: Several hundred thousand in eastern Sudan and western Eritrea
Location: The Red Sea hills and the Gash delta — Kassala, Port Sudan's hinterland and the Eritrean border
Language: Tu-Bedawie (Beja), a Cushitic language with no close relatives
Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Cushitic (Northern)
Traditional governance: Clan and lineage organisation under a paramount; the Beja Congress has represented the region politically since 1958, and eastern Sudan's grievances have periodically become armed.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Hadendoa proper
The largest Beja division, of the Gash delta and the hills.
Beni Amer
Neighbouring Beja-Tigre confederation spanning the Eritrean border.
Bisharin and Amarar
Northern Beja divisions towards the Egyptian frontier.
Clothing: The tirhal hairstyle — a thick upstanding mass of hair, dressed with butter — which gave rise to the British nickname; men's jalabiya and sword; women's dress with silver.
Food: Camel and goat milk and meat, sorghum porridge, dates; coffee prepared with ginger in the jebena, drunk in long sessions.
Ceremonies: Weddings with sword dancing and camel display; the recitation of poetry in Tu-Bedawie; funerals; seasonal movement between the hills and the delta.
Marriage customs: Cousin marriage preferred; bridewealth in camels; the Beja's marriage customs and the salif customary code govern compensation and obligation in detail.
Initiation rites: No formal rite; competence with camels in extremely arid country, and knowledge of the salif, mark adult standing.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Sudan and Eritrea, at national rather than community level — 18 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
10 dishes
Paper-thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate with a wooden strip and peeled off in sheets. Eaten under every Sudanese stew, and torn rather than cut.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
also Sudanese pancake bread
A thick soft wheat pancake cooked on a flat griddle, the western Sudanese alternative to kisra and the bread that soaks up mullah best.
Serves Makes 8 · 40 minutes, plus 1 hour resting
Fava beans simmered soft and crushed at the table with oil, cheese, tomato and chilli. Sudan's universal breakfast, eaten standing at a stall or sitting round a single shared bowl.
Serves 4 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
also Yoghurt stew, Mulah roub
Meat and dried okra powder stewed in soured milk, one of the great Sudanese mullah stews, poured over kisra sorghum bread and eaten with the hand.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Sudanese fava fritters, spicier than the Egyptian version and usually served in a bread roll with salad and peanut sauce. The staple of Khartoum's morning food carts.
Serves Makes 20 · 40 minutes, plus overnight soaking
A dome of sorghum porridge served with mullah, a stew of dried meat, okra powder and peanut butter. The dish of weddings, naming days and Eid across northern and central Sudan.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Lentil soup, Ramadan soup
Red lentil soup with cumin and lemon, the first thing on the table at every Sudanese iftar and the standard opener at weddings.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
Aubergine mashed with peanut butter, yoghurt and lemon into a smoky purée, eaten cold with kisra. It appears on almost every Sudanese table alongside the hot dishes.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
also Gahwa
Coffee roasted, pounded and brewed in a long-necked clay pot, spiced with ginger and cardamom and strained through a plug of grass. Made in the street by women who set up a stool and a brazier.
Serves 4 small cups · 30 minutes
also Hibiscus tea, Roselle
Dried hibiscus calyces steeped into a deep crimson drink, served iced through the Sudanese heat and hot in the cold season. Sudan grows some of the best in the world.
Serves Makes 2 litres · 20 minutes, plus 4 hours steeping
8 dishes
also Injera
Fermented teff flatbread, the plate and the cutlery of every Eritrean meal. Sour, spongy and torn to pick up whatever is spooned onto it.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also Spiced lentils, Birsen
Brown or red lentils cooked with berbere and onion until thick, the everyday Eritrean stew and the fasting-day mainstay.
Serves 6 · 55 minutes
Beef stewed slowly in berbere and onion until the sauce goes deep red and the meat surrenders. Served on taita with a hard-boiled egg, and Eritrea's central dish.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes
also Ambasha
A slightly sweet celebration bread scored into a wheel pattern before baking, studded with raisins and scented with cardamom. Broken at gatherings and with coffee.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes
Chicken in berbere sauce with whole eggs, the dish made when a guest arrives or a family celebrates. The chicken is jointed into twelve pieces by custom.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Powdered chickpea or broad bean flour cooked into a smooth spiced purée, the fasting food of the Orthodox calendar and the everyday food of most households.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Mild vegetable stew, Alicha birsen
The mild counterpart to zigni: potatoes, carrots and cabbage stewed with turmeric and no chilli, for children, for fasting and for anyone who has had enough berbere.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
The coffee ceremony: beans roasted, ground and brewed in a jebena in front of the guests, poured in three rounds over an hour or more. Refusing to stay for all three is a slight.
Serves 4, three rounds · 1 hour
The Square That BrokeHistorical account
At Tamai in 1884, during the Mahdist wars, Hadendoa fighters broke a British infantry square — something that very rarely happened. Kipling's poem made fuzzy-wuzzy a byword in Britain, with a grudging respect wrapped inside a racial caricature. The Hadendoa were fighting for the Mahdist state against an invading army; the poem does not mention that.
The Oldest Language on the CoastLanguage account
Tu-Bedawie is a Cushitic language with no close relatives, and linguists connect it to the speech of the Blemmyes who harassed Roman Egypt's southern frontier. It has survived alongside Arabic for over a millennium without being displaced, though it is now under pressure, and Sudan has never taught it in schools.
“The camel knows the well; the man must know the way.”
Knowledge over instinct.
“Coffee is drunk three times or not at all.”
The jebena session's etiquette.
“The hills gave us nothing and kept us free.”
Marginal land as protection.
Creation: Islamic cosmology; older Beja traditions surviving in the salif customary code and in beliefs attached to particular hills and springs.
Beliefs: Sunni Islam with strong Sufi orders, particularly the Khatmiyya, whose influence in eastern Sudan is longstanding; saint tombs visited; the salif operating alongside sharia.
Ancestors: Clan genealogy determines rights to wells and grazing; the graves of clan notables mark territory in the hills.
Allah
The one God
Khatmiyya sheikhs
Leaders of the Sufi order dominant in eastern Sudan
The salif
Not divine, but customary law treated as inherited and binding
Traditional settlements: Portable dwellings of mats over a frame, carried by camel; permanent settlement at Kassala and the Gash delta villages.
Building techniques: Mat-and-frame construction transportable by camel; stone and mud in the settled areas; hand-dug wells and terraced runoff farming in the hills.
Village layout: Camps by well and pasture, moving with the seasons; delta villages beside the Gash's flood-irrigated fields.
Beja sword and shield
Craft
The straight cross-hilted sword still worn at ceremony.
Tirhal hairstyle and hair combs
Dress
The dressed hair that gave rise to the British nickname.
Jebena coffee pot
Craft
Clay pot for the long spiced coffee sessions of eastern Sudan.
Taka mountains at Kassala
Heritage site
The granite domes above the Gash delta, the region's landmark.
Antiquity
Blemmyes, ancestral to the Beja, harass Roman Egypt's southern frontier.
1500s–1800s
Beja clans dominate the Red Sea hills; Islam and Sufi orders spread.
1883–1885
Hadendoa fighters are central to Mahdist victories, including at Tamai.
1958–2006
The Beja Congress presses eastern Sudan's grievances; conflict flares periodically.
Present
Port Sudan's trade dominates the regional economy; Tu-Bedawie remains untaught in schools.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources