Fufu
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Fishers, farmers and cattle keepers of Idjwi island and the Kivu shore, whose island kingdom is the largest in Lake Kivu, and whose community holds the highest recorded prevalence of albinism in Africa.
Population: Estimated 500,000 to 800,000
Location: Idjwi island in Lake Kivu and the adjacent western shore in Kalehe territory, South Kivu, DR Congo
Language: Kihavu
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (JD52)
Traditional governance: Two kingdoms on Idjwi — Ntambuka in the north and Rubenga in the south — each under a mwami; mainland chiefdoms in Kalehe; Congolese territorial administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Havu of northern Idjwi
The Ntambuka kingdom.
Havu of southern Idjwi
The Rubenga kingdom.
Mainland Havu of Kalehe
Shore communities on the lake's western side.
Batwa of Idjwi
Forest-origin households on the island, among the Congo's most marginalised communities.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; the mwami's regalia at installations; barkcloth and hide in the older record.
Food: Cassava and beans, sweet potato, plantain, lake fish including sambaza, milk from the island's herds, and the banana and sorghum beers of the region.
Ceremonies: Installation of a mwami with the royal drums; ancestral offerings at royal tombs; fishing rites at named landings; funerals; harvest observances.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in cattle and goods; island endogamy is high, which is relevant to the community's genetics.
Initiation rites: No circumcision traditionally; adulthood is marked by a household, a canoe or a plot.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Democratic Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 12 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Congolese beans, Haricots
Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée
Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Beignets
Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.
Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée
Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels
Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Saka saka
Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe
Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Palm wine
Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
also Congolese maize spirit
Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.
Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling
The Island KingdomsPolitical history
Idjwi, at 70 kilometres long, is the largest island in Lake Kivu and the second largest inland island in Africa. It has been divided between two Havu kingdoms since a nineteenth-century split, Ntambuka in the north and Rubenga in the south, each with its own mwami, drums and tombs. The island's isolation kept it comparatively out of the worst of the Congo wars — it has no road connection to anywhere and is reached only by boat — and it has absorbed displaced people from the mainland repeatedly.
Albinism on IdjwiMedical and social history
Idjwi has among the highest recorded prevalences of oculocutaneous albinism anywhere, attributed to a founder effect in a long-isolated and endogamous population. Researchers have documented rates far above the continental average. People with albinism in the Great Lakes region face acute danger from attacks driven by beliefs about their body parts, and Idjwi's community has organised — with Congolese and international support — around protection, sun-protection and schooling, in a context where the island's isolation is both a shield and a constraint on medical care.
The Lake That Could ExplodeNatural hazard
Lake Kivu holds enormous quantities of dissolved carbon dioxide and methane in its deep water, trapped by density stratification. A limnic eruption — of the kind that killed 1,700 people at Lake Nyos in Cameroon in 1986 — would be catastrophic for the two million people on its shores. Methane extraction for power generation has begun on the Rwandan side, which reduces the hazard and generates electricity, and Idjwi sits in the middle of the lake with no evacuation route.
“The island hears the war and does not see it.”
On Idjwi's isolation.
“The lake is calm on top and holds its breath below.”
A saying that acquired a new meaning when the gas was understood.
“A child of the sun needs shade from his own village.”
A saying used in the island's albinism advocacy.
Creation: Nnamahanga as the creator; Lyangombe and the kubandwa possession cult; the lake and its islands carrying named powers and prohibitions.
Beliefs: Kubandwa historically; royal ancestral observance at the tombs; Catholic Christianity dominant, with Pentecostal expansion; fishing prohibitions and observances at named landings.
Ancestors: Royal tombs on Idjwi are tended and the mwami's genealogy is recited at installation; lineage ancestors are addressed at homestead level.
Nnamahanga
The creator god
Lyangombe
The hero-spirit of the interlacustrine possession cult
Lake powers
Presences of named bays, rocks and channels, addressed by fishers
Traditional settlements: Villages along the island's shores and ridges among banana and cassava, with landings below; the royal compounds distinguished by their enclosures and drum houses.
Building techniques: Pole and mud with grass thatch, now brick and iron sheet; dugout and plank canoe building; the royal enclosure with reed fencing; woven granaries.
Village layout: Houses along paths above the landings with plots behind, the royal compounds on commanding ground, and the fishing beaches shared by clan.
Royal drums of Ntambuka and Rubenga
Regalia
The sanctified drums of Idjwi's two kingdoms.
Lake Kivu canoes
Craft
Dugout and plank craft, including the three-hulled sambaza fishing rigs worked at night with lamps.
Royal tombs of Idjwi
Heritage site
Burial sites of the island's mwami, tended by designated families.
Coffee cooperatives
Agricultural heritage
Island washing stations producing specialty arabica for export since the 2010s.
Pre-1800
Havu communities settle Idjwi and the western Kivu shore under chiefly authority.
1800s
Idjwi is divided between the Ntambuka and Rubenga kingdoms; Rwandan influence over the island fluctuates.
1900s–1960
Belgian administration; missions and coffee are introduced.
1994–2003
The Rwandan refugee influx and the Congo wars; Idjwi absorbs displaced people while escaping the worst of the fighting.
2010s–present
Specialty coffee cooperatives develop; albinism prevalence on the island draws medical and human-rights attention; Kivu methane extraction begins on the Rwandan side.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources