Hlengwe

The people of the south-eastern lowveld — Tsonga-speaking farmers and hunters of the dry Save and Limpopo country, moved off their land twice for a national park and a sugar estate, and split across three borders.

Identity

Population: Estimated over 100,000 in south-eastern Zimbabwe, with related Tsonga populations across the borders

Location: Chiredzi, Chikombedzi and the Gonarezhou lowveld of Zimbabwe's Masvingo province

Language: Xitshwa and Xitsonga varieties; Shona increasingly dominant through schooling

Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (S50, Tswa-Ronga)

Traditional governance: Chiefs and headmen recognised within Zimbabwean traditional authority; the community's marginal standing in national politics has been consistent.

Clans, Sections & Sub-groups (3)

Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.

Chikombedzi communities

The heartland of Zimbabwean Hlengwe settlement near the border.

Gonarezhou-displaced families

Households removed when the national park was established.

Cross-border kin

Tsonga communities in Mozambique's Gaza province and South Africa's Limpopo.

Culture

Clothing: Printed cloth wrappers; the Tsonga xibelani skirt, heavy and pleated, danced with a distinctive hip movement; beadwork.

Food: Sorghum and millet in a dry country, marula fruit and its beer, mopane worms, and game historically before the park closed the hunting.

Ceremonies: Xibelani dance; rain ceremonies; ancestor consultation through spirit mediums; marula harvest and brewing.

Marriage customs: Bridewealth in cattle; patrilineal descent; cross-border marriage common and now complicated by immigration control.

Initiation rites: Boys' and girls' initiation in the Tsonga pattern; instruction in the bush country's water sources and seasons.

Food & Recipes

Every dish the Atlas publishes for Zimbabwe, Mozambique and South Africa, at national rather than community level — 26 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.

Zimbabwe

8 dishes

StapleZimbabwe

Sadza

White maize meal cooked stiff, eaten twice a day with relish. Zimbabweans measure a meal by whether sadza was on the plate.

Serves 6 · 30 minutes

StapleZimbabwe

Muriwo une Dovi

also Greens in peanut butter

Collard or pumpkin greens stewed with peanut butter until thick and nutty, the Zimbabwean relish eaten with sadza more often than any other.

Serves 6 · 40 minutes

National dishZimbabwe

Sadza ne Nyama

Sadza with beef stewed in tomato and onion, the country's default meal and its national dish. Simple, and judged on the depth of the gravy.

Serves 6 · 2 hours

Street foodZimbabwe

Maputi

Popped maize kernels, salted or sugared, sold in plastic bags at bus stops and outside schools. Harder and nuttier than popcorn, made from field maize.

Serves 6 · 20 minutes

Festival & feastZimbabwe

Mabhonzo eMombe

Oxtail or beef bones stewed for hours until the meat falls away and the gravy thickens on its own gelatine. Cooked for family occasions and Christmas.

Serves 6 · 4 hours

Regional specialityZimbabwe

Madora

Mopane worms, dried and then fried with onion and tomato. High in protein, harvested from mopane woodland in season and a significant rural income.

Serves 6 · 45 minutes

Regional specialityZimbabwe

Matemba

also Dried bream, Small dried fish

Small sun-dried fish from Lake Kariba, fried with onion and tomato into a salty relish. The cheapest protein in Zimbabwe and one of the best-loved.

Serves 4 · 35 minutes

Drink & sweetZimbabwe

Maheu

Fermented maize drink, thick, sour and lightly sweet, sold in cartons nationwide and made at home from leftover sadza.

Serves Makes 3 litres · 1 to 2 days

Mozambique

8 dishes

StapleMozambique

Xima

also Ncima

Maize meal cooked stiff and eaten with fish, greens or matapa. The base of the Mozambican plate from Maputo to the Rovuma.

Serves 6 · 30 minutes

StapleMozambique

Mucapata

also Mung bean rice, Arroz com feijão verde

Rice cooked with mung beans and coconut milk, a northern Mozambican dish showing the Indian Ocean's long reach into the Swahili coast's cooking.

Serves 6 · 1 hour

National dishMozambique

Matapa

Pounded cassava leaves cooked with coconut milk, groundnut and crab or prawn, Mozambique's national dish. The pounding is done in a wooden mortar and takes an hour.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes

Street foodMozambique

Frango Piri-Piri

Chicken spatchcocked, marinated in bird's eye chilli, garlic and lime and grilled over charcoal, then basted repeatedly. Mozambique's best-known export to the world's high streets.

Serves 4 · 1 hour, plus overnight marinating

Festival & feastMozambique

Caril de Camarão

Prawn curry in coconut milk with cashew, from a coast that supplies both. Made for Sundays and celebrations and served with rice.

Serves 6 · 50 minutes

Regional specialityMozambique

Badjias

Fritters of ground cowpeas or split peas with onion and chilli, fried and sold in cones on Maputo's streets. An Indian Ocean arrival that became Mozambican.

Serves Makes 24 · 40 minutes, plus 4 hours soaking

Regional specialityMozambique

Galinha à Zambeziana

also Zambezia chicken

Chicken grilled with a coconut, lime and piri-piri baste from Quelimane and the Zambezia coast — richer and less fiercely hot than the southern piri-piri chicken.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating

Drink & sweetMozambique

Sura

Coconut palm wine tapped along the northern coast, drunk sweet the same morning or sour by evening. Sold from bottles at the roadside in Nampula and Cabo Delgado.

Serves Varies · Tapped daily

South Africa

10 dishes

StapleSouth Africa

Pap and Chakalaka

Maize porridge with a spiced vegetable relish, eaten at braais and in townships across the country. Chakalaka was invented on the mines and has spread everywhere since.

Serves 6 · 50 minutes

StapleSouth Africa

Umngqusho

also Samp and beans, Isitambu

Cracked dried maize and sugar beans cooked slowly together with onion and butter, the Xhosa staple and, famously, Nelson Mandela's favourite food.

Serves 6 · 3 hours, plus overnight soaking

National dishSouth Africa

Bobotie

Spiced mince baked under a savoury custard with bay leaves standing in it, a Cape Malay dish and South Africa's most-cited national plate.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes

National dishSouth Africa

Boerewors

also Farmer's sausage, Wors

Coarse beef sausage spiced with coriander, clove and vinegar, coiled in a spiral and grilled over coals. The South African braai is not a braai without it.

Serves 8 · 1 hour, plus overnight resting

Street foodSouth Africa

Bunny Chow

A quarter loaf of white bread hollowed out and filled with curry, invented in Durban's Indian community and eaten with the hands, no cutlery permitted.

Serves 4 · 2 hours

Festival & feastSouth Africa

Braai with Boerewors

Meat grilled over wood coals, with boerewors coiled in a spiral. A braai is a national institution with its own public holiday, and gas is not accepted.

Serves 8 · 2 hours

Festival & feastSouth Africa

Potjiekos

also Potjie, Three-legged pot stew

Meat and vegetables layered in a cast-iron pot over coals and left for hours without stirring, so each layer stays itself. The South African outdoor cooking ritual.

Serves 8 · 4 hours

Festival & feastSouth Africa

Koeksisters

also Koesister, Syrup plaits

Plaited dough fried and dropped straight into ice-cold syrup so the outside stays crisp and the inside floods with sugar. A South African argument between the Afrikaans plait and the Cape Malay spiced ball.

Serves Makes about 24 · 1 hour, plus chilling the syrup overnight

Regional specialitySouth Africa

Cape Malay Denningvleis

Lamb stewed with tamarind, allspice and onions until sour-sweet and dark, from the Cape Malay kitchen built by people brought to the Cape as slaves from Southeast Asia.

Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes

Drink & sweetSouth Africa

Rooibos Tea

Red bush tea from the Cederberg, the only place on earth it grows, drunk without milk or as an espresso-style red cappuccino. Naturally caffeine-free.

Serves 4 · 15 minutes

Stories & Oral Literature

Moved TwiceDisplacement account

Hlengwe families were removed from the lowveld when Gonarezhou was gazetted as a game reserve and then a national park, and again as the Hippo Valley and Triangle sugar estates took the irrigable land along the rivers. Land they had hunted and farmed became a park they need a permit to enter and a plantation that employs them as cutters.

GonarezhouPlace

The name means place of many elephants. The park's Chilojo Cliffs above the Runde river are among southern Africa's great landscapes, and it now forms part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park spanning Zimbabwe, Mozambique and South Africa. The transfrontier arrangement reunites an ecosystem across borders while the people it belonged to remain divided by the same lines.

Proverbs

The elephant remembers the water; so do we.

Deep knowledge of a dry country.

The marula falls for everyone.

A wild resource nobody owns.

They fenced the hunting and called it saving.

Conservation as dispossession.

Mythology & Spiritual Beliefs

Creation: A creator god distant from daily affairs; ancestors (svikwembu) active and consulted through mediums; the bush and its water carrying prohibitions.

Beliefs: Ancestor veneration through spirit mediums; rainmaking; the ndau and related possession traditions; Christianity widespread, particularly Zionist churches.

Ancestors: Ancestral graves in what is now parkland or plantation ground the community's land claims; mediums are consulted on drought and illness.

Gods, Goddesses & Spirits

The creator (Xikwembu)

The distant high god

Svikwembu

Ancestral spirits who possess mediums and speak to the living

Rain powers

Addressed at shrines in a drought-prone country

Architecture

Traditional settlements: Villages of pole-and-dagga round houses with thatch, granaries on stones, sited near boreholes and seasonal pans.

Building techniques: Pole and dagga with grass thatch; raised granaries; wooden mortars and headrests; thorn kraals for cattle.

Village layout: Scattered homesteads around a headman's compound with fields on the better soils and grazing beyond.

Artifacts

Xibelani skirt

Dress

Heavy pleated skirt danced with the distinctive Tsonga hip movement.

Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou

Heritage site

Sandstone cliffs above the Runde, in the ancestral lowveld.

Marula beer brewing

Livelihood

Seasonal fruit beer, central to the lowveld year.

Wooden headrests and mortars

Craft

Domestic woodwork of the Tsonga-speaking lowveld.

Historical Timeline

  1. Pre-1800

    Tsonga-speaking communities settle the Save and Limpopo lowveld.

  2. 1890s–1930s

    Colonial rule; Hlengwe are pushed into reserves on the poorest land.

  3. 1934–1975

    Gonarezhou is gazetted as a reserve and then a national park; families are removed.

  4. 1960s–1980s

    Hippo Valley and Triangle sugar estates take the irrigable river land.

  5. 2002–present

    The Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park is established across three countries.

Sources & Further Reading

Open sources