Lahoh
Fermented pancakes cooked on one side, eaten in Hargeisa at breakfast with ghee, honey or stew. The everyday bread of the north.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus overnight fermenting
The largest clan family of the north-west — livestock exporters and traders of Hargeisa, Burao and Berbera, targets of the state bombardment of their cities in 1988, and the political core of the Somaliland republic declared in 1991.

Isaaq people
Chieftains of the Isaaq clan.jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: Several million in Somaliland, Ethiopia's Somali region and a large diaspora in Britain and the Gulf
Location: The Woqooyi Galbeed, Togdheer and Sahil regions — Hargeisa, Burao, Berbera and Borama's surroundings
Language: Somali (Northern dialect)
Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Cushitic → Somali
Traditional governance: Clan elders (guurti) formalised into an upper house of the Somaliland parliament, an unusual constitutional fusion of customary and electoral authority; Somaliland's independence is not internationally recognised.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Habr Awal
Includes the Sa'ad Muse and Issa Muse, historically dominant in Berbera and Hargeisa commerce.
Habr Je'lo
Eastern Isaaq of Burao and the Togdheer plains.
Habr Yunis and Arap
Further major divisions across the central and western regions.
1 images
Clothing: Macawis and koofiyad, guntiino and shaash; British-influenced dress in the towns from the protectorate period.
Food: Camel and goat meat and milk, canjeero, rice, sambusa, dates; Berbera's livestock export trade to Arabia is the economy's backbone.
Ceremonies: Poetry contests, the highest Somali art form and one in which several of the language's greatest figures are Isaaq; buraanbur women's verse; weddings with dhaanto; guurti assemblies for peace-making.
Marriage customs: Islamic marriage; bridewealth in camels; the peace conferences of the 1990s were sealed partly by marriage alliances between clans.
Initiation rites: Quranic school; memorisation of genealogy; poetry composition as the mark of an educated adult.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Somaliland and Somalia, at national rather than community level — 15 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
6 dishes
Fermented pancakes cooked on one side, eaten in Hargeisa at breakfast with ghee, honey or stew. The everyday bread of the north.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus overnight fermenting
Camel meat, the north's celebration food, stewed with xawaash or grilled fresh. Somaliland's livestock exports are the whole economy and camel is at the top of the hierarchy.
Serves 8 · 3 hours
Maize bread baked against the wall of a clay oven, thick and slightly charred, eaten with ghee and sugar or with camel milk.
Serves Makes 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Spaghetti with a spiced meat sauce, a lasting inheritance of Italian colonial administration and now served at Somali weddings alongside rice.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
A clear soup of goat or camel bones with vegetables and lime, drunk before the main dish or on its own to break a fast.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Camel milk, drunk fresh and warm from the animal or lightly soured. It keeps better than cow's milk in heat and is the pastoral north's staple drink.
Serves 4 · 5 minutes
9 dishes
Thin fermented pancakes cooked on one side, eaten at breakfast with sesame oil and sugar, or torn into suqaar at any other time.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus overnight fermenting
Spiced rice with goat, coloured with xawaash and studded with raisins, served with a banana. Somalia's national plate and the centre of every gathering.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Chicken in coconut, Somali coconut chicken
Chicken stewed in yoghurt and coconut with xawaash spice, a southern Somali dish that shows the coast's Indian Ocean connections in every spoonful.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Fried dough sticks and meat pastries sold together at tea shops and Ramadan stalls, eaten with shaah and dates.
Serves Makes 20 each · 2 hours
Goat roasted or fried in its own fat and served over rice or canjeero, the meat put out when a family celebrates. Cooked simply because good goat needs nothing else.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
also Halwa, Somali halwa
A dense translucent sweet of cornflour, sugar and ghee scented with cardamom and often studded with peanuts, made for every Somali wedding and Eid.
Serves 12 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Meat and vegetables cut into small cubes and fried fast with xawaash, eaten with canjeero or chapati. The Somali answer to a quick meal.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
also Somali green chilli sauce, Basbaas cagaar
The green chilli, coriander and lime relish that arrives with every Somali meal and without which nothing is considered properly served.
Serves Makes about 300ml · 15 minutes
Spiced milk tea boiled with cardamom, cinnamon and clove, offered within minutes of any arrival. Turning down the first glass is not really available to a guest.
Serves 4 · 15 minutes
The Bombing of HargeisaHistorical account
In 1988 the Somali government responded to the Somali National Movement's offensive by bombing and shelling Hargeisa and Burao, killing tens of thousands of civilians and driving hundreds of thousands into Ethiopia. Aircraft flew from Hargeisa's own airport. Mass graves are still being exhumed, and a MiG fighter stands as a memorial in the city centre.
Peace Made by EldersPolitical history
After 1991 Somaliland's clans held a series of conferences at Berbera, Sheikh and Borama in which elders negotiated ceasefires, disarmament and a constitution, without foreign mediation. The resulting system gave the guurti a formal chamber of parliament. It produced three decades of relative stability and a functioning electoral system, and it has still not brought recognition.
“Ilko wada jira wax ma gooyaan.”
“Teeth that are together cut nothing.”
Unity without coordination achieves little.
“The camel that is loaded by everyone carries nothing.”
Divided responsibility.
“We built our peace before we asked for a flag.”
The Somaliland political argument in a sentence.
Creation: Islamic cosmology; descent traced to Sheikh Ishaaq bin Ahmed, whose tomb at Maydh on the Gulf of Aden coast is a major pilgrimage site.
Beliefs: Sunni Shafi'i Islam with Qadiriyya and Salihiyya orders; saint visitation; xeer customary law functioning alongside sharia and statute.
Ancestors: Abtirsiin recitation; the war dead of 1988 function as a collective ancestral claim underpinning Somaliland's case.
Allah
The one God
Sheikh Ishaaq
Apical ancestor, whose tomb at Maydh is visited by pilgrims
Sufi saints
Order founders honoured across the region
Traditional settlements: Hargeisa, Burao and Berbera as substantial towns, the last with Ottoman and colonial-era coral architecture; aqal camps in the pastoral interior.
Building techniques: Coral and lime building at Berbera with wind-catching upper rooms; concrete block in the rebuilt cities; aqal mat-and-pole dwellings inland.
Village layout: Town around market, mosque and livestock quarantine yards; nomadic camps by well and pasture.
Laas Geel rock art
Heritage site
Neolithic painted shelters near Hargeisa, among Africa's best-preserved rock art.
Berbera's coral-stone town
Architecture
Ottoman and colonial-era merchant houses on the Gulf of Aden.
Livestock export infrastructure
Livelihood
Quarantine yards and port facilities supplying the Gulf with millions of animals.
MiG memorial, Hargeisa
Monument
Fighter aircraft mounted in the city centre commemorating the 1988 bombardment.
1884–1960
British Somaliland protectorate; Berbera exports livestock to Aden.
1960
Independence and immediate union with Italian Somaliland to form Somalia.
1981–1988
The Somali National Movement forms; government bombardment destroys Hargeisa and Burao.
1991
Somaliland declares independence; elder-led conferences build a constitutional order.
Present
Functioning elections and institutions without international recognition; the Las Anod conflict has strained the settlement.
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