Kisra
Thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate and peeled off in sheets, the base of every meal in the north of the country.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
Central Sudanic farmers of the Congo-Nile watershed at the South Sudan-DR Congo border, close kin of the Lugbara and Avukaya, whose small population has been displaced by every war in either country for seventy years.
Population: Estimated 30,000 to 60,000
Location: Yei River and Morobo areas of Central Equatoria, South Sudan, and Aru and Faradje territories in Ituri and Haut-Uélé, DR Congo
Language: Kaliko (Keliko), with the closely related Avukaya
Language family: Nilo-Saharan → Central Sudanic → Moru-Ma'di
Traditional governance: Chiefs and lineage elders; South Sudanese and Congolese county and territorial administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Kaliko of Morobo
The South Sudanese communities near the border triangle.
Kaliko of Aru
Congolese communities in Ituri's northern territory.
Avukaya
The closely related community to the west, often counted with them.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; barkcloth and hide in the older record; ceremonial regalia at chiefly and funeral occasions.
Food: Cassava and sorghum bread, sim sim paste, groundnuts, greens, honey, forest game historically, and the local brews of the watershed.
Ceremonies: Ancestral offerings; funerals with dance and extended mourning; harvest and hunting rites; church services, which are the community's main assemblies in displacement.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous with bridewealth in goats and cash; cross-border marriage is routine.
Initiation rites: The removal of lower incisors was formerly practised and has lapsed; adulthood is marked by household and garden.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for South Sudan and Democratic Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 21 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
9 dishes
Thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate and peeled off in sheets, the base of every meal in the north of the country.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
also Jute leaf stew, Khudra
Jute mallow leaves cooked to a thick green sauce with garlic and dried fish, poured over asida. Simple, cheap and eaten across the whole of South Sudan.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
Sorghum porridge with a green sauce of okra or greens, the everyday meal across South Sudan. Turned out as a dome and eaten from the shared dish.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Okra and greens stew
Fresh okra and wild greens cooked down with sesame paste into a thick, deliberately slippery stew, eaten with asida. The South Sudanese household dish.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Dried Nile fish stewed with onion and groundnut into a thick sauce, eaten with asida. The Nile's fish is dried in quantity and traded far inland.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
A goat or bull killed and roasted whole for a wedding, a homecoming or the settlement of a dispute. In cattle-keeping societies the animal is the message.
Serves 12 or more · 4 hours
also Bread and meat platter
Torn flatbread layered with meat broth, yoghurt and fried onion, assembled in a great tray at Eid and at weddings and eaten communally.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
Sorghum or maize porridge with a simple bean or greens relish, eaten in the Equatorias. Plain food, and what most of the country eats most days.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Sorghum beer brewed and sold by women, drunk from calabashes at markets and gatherings. It is thick, sour and cloudy, and doubles as food.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
12 dishes
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Congolese beans, Haricots
Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée
Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Beignets
Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.
Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée
Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels
Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Saka saka
Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe
Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Palm wine
Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
also Congolese maize spirit
Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.
Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling
A Language on a WatershedLinguistic history
Kaliko belongs to the Moru-Ma'di cluster of Central Sudanic, whose speakers — Ma'di, Lugbara, Moru, Avukaya, Logo, Kaliko — form a band across the Congo-Nile watershed cut by the Uganda, South Sudan and DR Congo borders. It is a small language with fewer than a hundred thousand speakers, and a Kaliko New Testament translation, produced over decades and completed in the 2010s, was the first substantial body of written material in it — a case of a language acquiring a literature in exile.
Displaced in Every DirectionContemporary history
Kaliko communities have been displaced by the first Sudanese civil war, by the second, by the Congolese wars of 1996 and 1998, by the Lord's Resistance Army's movements through Haut-Uélé after 2005, and by the South Sudanese war after 2013, which emptied Morobo almost entirely into Uganda and the Congo. A community of a few tens of thousands has been made refugees by four separate conflicts in two countries within living memory.
The Watershed FarmsAgricultural tradition
The Congo-Nile watershed here is fertile, well-watered ground that grows cassava, sorghum, groundnuts, coffee and fruit reliably, which is why every displaced population that reaches it stays and why every returning one finds its land occupied. Kaliko households returning to Morobo after 2018 found gardens overgrown, boundaries disputed and neighbours who had themselves fled from elsewhere. Land arbitration by chiefs is the community's most active institution.
“The one who plants after a war plants in someone's memory.”
On returning to contested land.
“Rain crosses the border without a paper.”
On a community living across three states.
“A small tongue is loudest in its own house.”
On a minority language and where it is spoken.
Creation: A high god of the Central Sudanic tradition, remote; ancestral spirits as the working powers; named hills, streams and trees carrying prohibitions.
Beliefs: Ancestral offerings at homestead altars; divination and herbal treatment; Catholic and Anglican Christianity long established and, in displacement, the community's principal organising institution.
Ancestors: The dead are buried within the compound and addressed at a small altar; graves are cited in the land arbitrations that follow every return.
The high god
The remote creator of the Central Sudanic tradition
Ancestral spirits
Addressed at homestead altars in illness and dispute
Site powers
Presences of named hills, streams and trees on the watershed
Traditional settlements: Homesteads of round thatched houses with granaries, dispersed across the watershed farmland, with churches as the fixed points.
Building techniques: Wattle and daub with conical grass thatch; woven granaries plastered with mud; iron working for hoes; simple altars kept within the compound.
Village layout: Houses around a swept yard with granaries behind and the ancestral altar at a fixed point; fields around; the church serving several settlements.
Woven granary
Craft
Wicker and mud store raised against damp and rodents.
Kaliko scripture translation
Language material
The first substantial written corpus in the language, completed in the 2010s.
Homestead ancestral altar
Ritual structure
Small structure within the compound where the dead are addressed.
Chiefs' land arbitration records
Institutional heritage
Customary decisions settling boundaries after each cycle of displacement and return.
Pre-1800
Central Sudanic-speaking communities settle the Congo-Nile watershed as farmers and hunters.
1860s–1890s
Khartoum-based raiding devastates the region; colonial boundaries divide the Moru-Ma'di peoples three ways.
1955–2005
Sudan's civil wars displace Kaliko communities repeatedly into Congo and Uganda.
1996–2010
The Congo wars and Lord's Resistance Army activity displace the Congolese-side communities.
2016–present
South Sudan's conflict empties Morobo; partial returns from 2018 raise unresolved land questions.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources