Banku
Fermented maize and cassava dough cooked to a smooth sour ball, eaten with okro stew or grilled tilapia and pepper. Sour, dense and shaped by hand into a rounded mound.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
Yam farmers of the Oti plain on the Ghana-Togo border, a people without chiefs who were administered under other peoples' chiefs for a century, and whose demand for their own paramountcy produced Ghana's deadliest post-independence conflict.
Population: Estimated 1 to 1.5 million across Ghana and Togo
Location: The Oti and Northern regions of Ghana around Saboba, Yendi's hinterland and Bimbilla, and adjacent northern Togo
Language: Likpakpaln (Konkomba)
Language family: Niger-Congo → Gur → Gurma
Traditional governance: Earth priests (utindaan) and clan elders, with no chiefship in the older order; the Konkomba Youth Association as a modern political vehicle; Ghanaian and Togolese local administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Bimonkpeln
One of the principal clan groupings of the Oti plain.
Bikpakpaam of Saboba
Communities around the Ghanaian district centre.
Konkomba of Togo
Communities across the border in the Savanes and Kara regions.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; the smock (batakari) of northern Ghana at ceremonies; the wrestler's and dancer's regalia at festivals.
Food: Yam above all — the Konkomba are among West Africa's largest yam producers — with millet, sorghum, groundnuts, guinea fowl, and the pito millet beer central to every gathering.
Ceremonies: The yam festival; funerals with wrestling, drumming and the firing of guns; earth-shrine rites conducted by the utindaan; initiation and marriage sequences.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; betrothal historically arranged in infancy with long bridewealth service by the groom to the bride's family.
Initiation rites: Boys' initiation with instruction; wrestling is the principal competitive institution and a young man's standing is built in it.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Ghana and Togo, at national rather than community level — 17 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
9 dishes
Fermented maize and cassava dough cooked to a smooth sour ball, eaten with okro stew or grilled tilapia and pepper. Sour, dense and shaped by hand into a rounded mound.
Serves 4 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also TZ, Sagim
Maize and cassava flour cooked into a soft swallow, the staple of northern Ghana, eaten with an okra or ayoyo soup that has to be slippery enough to swallow it.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Rice cooked in a reduced tomato and pepper base, made in Ghana with aromatic rice and a lighter hand on the purée. The rivalry with Nigeria over this dish is conducted with total seriousness.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Kormi, Dokono
Fermented maize dough half-cooked, wrapped in maize husks and boiled into dense sour balls. The Ga and Fante staple, eaten with fried fish and pepper sauce.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
Rice and beans cooked with dried sorghum leaves, which turn it a deep reddish brown, sold from before dawn with shito, gari, spaghetti and boiled egg piled on.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
also Spiced fried plantain
Ripe plantain cubed, tossed in ginger, chilli and spice and deep-fried, sold from pans on Accra street corners after dark and eaten with roasted peanuts.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
Pounded cassava and plantain with a clear peppery soup of goat or fish. Sunday food, and the dish most Ghanaians name when asked what they would want if they were far from home.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Black-eyed peas stewed in palm oil with tomato, served with fried ripe plantain and gari. Named twice for red: the palm oil and the tomato.
Serves 6 · 1 hour, plus overnight soaking
Hibiscus infused with pineapple skin, ginger and cloves, sold chilled in bottles at every junction in Accra. Ghana's version leans heavily on the ginger.
Serves 8 · 30 minutes, plus chilling
8 dishes
also Akume
Maize dough cooked into a soft mound and served with sauce, the daily starch of southern Togo. Made from fermented dough for the sour version or fresh flour for the plain.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Pounded yam or cassava with a groundnut and tomato sauce, the dish Togolese name first when asked about their food. Made with guinea fowl on a good day.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
Whole chicken grilled over charcoal with a chilli and ginger baste, sold from roadside grills in Lomé and eaten with the fingers and a cold drink.
Serves 4 · 1 hour 15 minutes, plus 3 hours marinating
also Rice and beans, Watche
Rice and beans cooked together and sold from great pots at Lomé's roadsides from dawn, with fried plantain, spaghetti and a fierce tomato sauce heaped on top.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes, plus soaking
also Snails in sauce, Escargots grillés
Giant land snails grilled on skewers or stewed in a tomato and chilli sauce, sold along the Togolese coast road and eaten with a beer.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
Maize flour cooked into a red tomato sauce and baked or set into a firm cake, served with chicken. Made for Christmas, weddings and any occasion worth the effort.
Serves 8 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Spinach and meat stewed with palm oil and dried fish into a dark green sauce, eaten over pâte. Gboma is the African nightshade leaf that gives it its name.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Sorghum beer brewed in the north of Togo and Benin, served warm and cloudy in calabashes at markets and funerals. Brewing and selling it is women's work and women's income.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
A People Without ChiefsPolitical history
Konkomba society was organised by clan and by earth-shrine priesthood, with no chiefs. British indirect rule required chiefs, so the Konkomba were administered under Dagomba, Nanumba and Gonja paramountcies — peoples who had claimed authority over the Oti plain and whose claims the colonial state made real. Konkomba land was thereby held to belong to others, and the political demand that followed independence was simple: recognition of a Konkomba paramountcy and of Konkomba land rights.
The Guinea Fowl WarConflict history
In February 1994 a quarrel in a market at Nakpayili, reported to have begun over the price of a guinea fowl, escalated into a conflict between Konkomba on one side and Nanumba, Dagomba and Gonja on the other that killed an estimated 1,000 to 2,000 people within weeks and displaced roughly 150,000. It was the deadliest internal conflict in Ghana's post-independence history. The underlying question was land and chiefship, not poultry, and the Kumasi peace process that followed addressed it only partially.
The Yam EconomyEconomic history
The Oti plain is Ghana's principal yam-producing region, and Konkomba farmers supply markets in Accra, Kumasi, Lomé and beyond; Konkomba yam markets in the southern cities are named institutions with their own leadership. Yam is bulky, perishable and labour-intensive, and the trade has made Konkomba traders a presence in every major Ghanaian market while leaving the farmers themselves at the weak end of the chain.
“The land has a priest, not an owner.”
The Konkomba position on tenure, against the chiefship claim.
“A man is measured on the ground, not in the talking.”
On wrestling.
“The yam is heavy and the road to market is long.”
On the crop and the trade.
Creation: Uwumbor as the high god; the earth (kitiin) as the central power, addressed through the utindaan earth priest; ancestral spirits at lineage shrines.
Beliefs: Earth-shrine rites as the core institution; ancestral offerings; divination; Catholic and Evangelical Christianity now widespread, with Islam present through trade.
Ancestors: Ancestors are addressed at lineage shrines; the earth priest's descent is the basis of his office and of the community's land claim.
Uwumbor
The high god
The earth
Addressed through the utindaan for fertility, boundaries and oaths
Ancestral spirits
Addressed at lineage shrines for health and harvest
Traditional settlements: Dispersed compounds of round thatched huts linked by walls into enclosed units, scattered across the yam farmland rather than gathered into villages.
Building techniques: Mud and pole huts with conical grass thatch, linked into compound units; granaries within the compound; the earth shrine kept as an unbuilt site.
Village layout: A compound of linked huts around an internal yard with granaries, yam fields around, and the earth shrine at a fixed uncleared point.
Earth shrine sites
Ritual structure
Uncleared sites at which the utindaan addresses the land.
Linked-hut compound
Architecture
Round huts joined by walls into a single enclosed household unit.
Yam barns
Agricultural heritage
Raised stacking structures for storing the region's principal crop.
Wrestling grounds
Heritage site
Village sites of the competitive wrestling that establishes young men's standing.
Pre-1700
Gurma-speaking communities settle the Oti plain under earth-priest authority without chiefs.
1700s–1800s
Dagomba, Nanumba and Gonja states claim authority over the plain; Konkomba communities resist and disperse.
1900s–1957
British indirect rule administers the Konkomba under other peoples' paramountcies.
1981 and 1994
Konkomba-Nanumba conflict in 1981 and the far larger 1994 conflict, which kills over a thousand and displaces 150,000.
2000s–present
Peace processes address chiefship and land partially; Konkomba yam trade expands across Ghana and Togo.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources