Bâton de Manioc
also Chikwangue
Fermented cassava paste wrapped in leaves and steamed into a dense sour stick, kept for days and eaten with every sauce. The Congo basin's bread.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
The reliquary-makers of eastern Gabon — forest people whose copper-sheathed guardian figures sat atop baskets of ancestral bone, and whose abstract faces were among the objects that redirected European art in 1907.
Population: Around 100,000 in eastern Gabon and western Congo
Location: The Ogooué-Ivindo and Haut-Ogooué provinces of Gabon, extending across the Congolese border
Language: Ikota and related languages
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (B20)
Traditional governance: Lineage elders with authority resting on custody of the ancestral reliquaries; Gabonese departmental administration today.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Obamba and Mindumu
Southern Kota groups with distinctive concave reliquary forms.
Shamaye and Mahongwe
Northern groups whose reliquaries are narrower and covered in fine copper strip.
Congolese Kota
Related communities across the border.
Clothing: Barkcloth and raffia historically; imported cotton today; ceremonial body painting in kaolin white for mourning and ritual.
Food: Cassava, plantain and forest yams with bushmeat and river fish; palm wine; forest gathering remains substantial.
Ceremonies: Bwete, the ancestral cult in which the reliquary figures appeared; funerals and second burials; initiation into the societies holding the relics; masked appearance at mourning's end.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth in iron, copper and later cash; lineage exogamy; the reliquaries pass within the lineage and are never alienated.
Initiation rites: Entry into the bwete society with instruction in the ancestors' names and the relics' history; the reliquary is shown only to initiates.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Gabon and Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 20 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
10 dishes
also Chikwangue
Fermented cassava paste wrapped in leaves and steamed into a dense sour stick, kept for days and eaten with every sauce. The Congo basin's bread.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
also Gnetum leaves, Koko gabonais
Gnetum forest leaves shredded to threads and cooked with palm oil, groundnut and smoked fish. The green that appears on Gabonese plates more than any other.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Chicken in palm nut sauce, Gabon's national dish, cooked with the pulp of the oil palm rather than its oil. Served with bâton de manioc or rice.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Fish skewers grilled at roadside braziers in Libreville and Port-Gentil, served with fried plantain and a chilli sauce.
Serves Makes 12 · 40 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating
also African pear, Safou
The purple African pear, softened in hot water or over embers until it turns buttery, salted and eaten with bread or roast maize. Gabon's seasonal obsession.
Serves 4 · 15 minutes
also Chocolat indigène
Wild mango kernels ground and pressed into dark blocks, melted into a rich sauce with fish or meat. Gabonese call it indigenous chocolate for its colour and its keeping.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Pounded cassava leaves with palm oil, smoked fish and groundnut, cooked long. The Congo basin's most-eaten green, and Gabon's version leans on the groundnut.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Fish in palm nut sauce
Fish cooked in the thick orange pulp of the palm nut, the sauce that defines Gabonese cooking and gives the national chicken dish its name.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Amaranth greens
Amaranth leaves stewed with tomato, onion and smoked fish, the simplest and commonest Gabonese green dish.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Palm wine tapped from raffia or oil palms, drunk fresh or fermented, and central to Bwiti ceremony as well as ordinary sociability.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
10 dishes
Fermented cassava steamed in leaves into a dense sour loaf, sliced and eaten with every sauce. Keeps for days without refrigeration, which is the point.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
also Beans with cassava leaves
Beans and cassava leaves cooked together with palm oil, the cheapest full meal in the Congo and among the most nutritionally complete.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 15 minutes, plus soaking
Chicken in palm nut sauce, claimed as national dish on both banks of the river. In Brazzaville it is served with chikwangue and a bowl of pili pili.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Chicken with cassava leaves
Chicken cooked into pounded cassava leaves with palm oil until the leaves darken and the meat falls apart, the Brazzaville Sunday dish.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Salt cod soaked, fried and served in tomato sauce with plantain, sold from lunch stalls in Brazzaville. Imported salt fish became a Congolese staple a century ago.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes, plus 24 hours soaking
also Peanut sticks, Pinda
Ground peanuts and maize flour steamed in leaf into firm sticks, sold at Brazzaville markets and eaten as a snack or a light meal.
Serves Makes about 12 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Goat steamed in banana leaf parcels with onion, chilli and herbs, made for celebrations and opened at the table.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Pounded cassava leaves cooked with palm oil and smoked fish, eaten several times a week across the country. The pounding is done in a tall wooden mortar.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Fish in leaves, Liboke ya mbisi
River fish seasoned and wrapped in marantaceae leaves and steamed or grilled in the parcel, so the fish cooks in its own juice. The purest Congo basin cooking there is.
Serves 4 · 50 minutes
Palm wine, drunk fresh from the gourd or left to sour, and the drink poured at every gathering and libation on both banks of the Congo.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
The Guardian on the BasketArt tradition
Kota reliquary figures are flat wooden faces sheathed in hammered brass and copper, with a lozenge base that sat in a basket holding the bones of lineage ancestors. The figure guarded the relics and represented the ancestors' presence. The metal was traded from the coast, and applying imported European brass to the most sacred object the lineage owned was itself a statement about the world the Kota were living in.
1907Art history
Kota reliquaries reached Paris through the colonial trade and were seen by Picasso, Braque, Derain and Matisse in the years around 1907, when Les Demoiselles d'Avignon was painted. Their radical abstraction of the face fed directly into Cubism. The figures were made as sacred guardians, entered European collections through conquest, and are credited in art history books that rarely name the lineages they were taken from.
“The face on the basket sees inward.”
The guardian's gaze is on the ancestors, not the visitor.
“Copper comes from the sea and stays in the forest.”
Trade goods absorbed into the sacred.
“Bones do not travel; names do.”
Continuity through memory.
Creation: Nzambi as creator; ancestors as the effective powers, present in their bones and represented by the guardian figures; forest spirits active.
Beliefs: Ancestral cult centred on the reliquary; bwiti and related initiatory religion widespread in Gabon; nganga healers; Christianity present and frequently combined.
Ancestors: The reliquary basket holds the skulls and bones of named lineage founders; the guardian figure is their public face and the lineage's charter.
Nzambi
The creator, remote from daily affairs
Lineage ancestors
The effective powers, present in the relics the figures guard
Forest spirits
Powers of the equatorial forest, addressed by hunters and healers
Traditional settlements: Villages of rectangular bark and raffia houses along a forest road or river, with a men's meeting house (corps de garde) at the centre.
Building techniques: Bark panel and raffia construction; carved and metal-sheathed sculpture as the outstanding craft; brass and copper hammered into thin sheet and strip.
Village layout: Two rows of houses along a street with the meeting house central; the relic house restricted to initiates.
Kota reliquary figure (mbulu-ngulu)
Sculpture
Copper- and brass-sheathed guardian figure that sat on a basket of ancestral bones.
Reliquary baskets
Ritual
Containers holding the skulls and bones of lineage founders.
Corps de garde
Architecture
The village men's meeting house, centre of public life.
Hammered copper strip work
Craft
Fine metalwork applied over carved wood.
Pre-1800
Kota communities settle eastern Gabon's forests; the reliquary cult develops.
1800s
Coastal trade brings European brass and copper inland, transforming reliquary construction.
1880s–1960
French colonisation; missionaries campaign against the reliquary cult and figures are collected or destroyed.
c. 1907
Kota figures in Paris collections influence Picasso, Braque and the emergence of Cubism.
Present
Major holdings in European and American museums; restitution debates continue.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources