Taita
also Injera
Fermented teff flatbread, the plate and the cutlery of every Eritrean meal. Sour, spongy and torn to pick up whatever is spooned onto it.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
The oldest inhabitants of the Gash-Setit — a Nilo-Saharan-speaking, matrilineal farming people surrounded by Semitic and Cushitic neighbours, who resisted every state that reached them and who have been displaced by the Eritrea-Ethiopia border war.

Kunama people
Eritrean Kunama cultural.png · Wikimedia Commons
Population: Around 100,000, with refugee communities in Ethiopia
Location: The Gash-Barka region of western Eritrea between the Gash and Setit rivers, and adjacent Ethiopia
Language: Kunama, a Nilo-Saharan language isolate within its region
Language family: Nilo-Saharan
Traditional governance: Village assemblies and matrilineal clan authority with no chiefs; land held collectively by the clan and allocated by assembly; Eritrean administration today.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Barka Kunama
Communities of the Barka river region.
Gash Kunama
Communities towards the Sudanese border.
Refugee communities
Populations displaced to Ethiopia by the 1998–2000 war and since.
1 images
Clothing: Cotton wraps with leather and beadwork; elaborate hairstyles marking age and status; body scarification in the older tradition.
Food: Sorghum and millet, sesame, cattle products and river fish; the region is agriculturally among Eritrea's most productive.
Ceremonies: Harvest and rain ceremonies; the sword and shield dances performed at funerals and celebrations; ancestor rites; assemblies at which land is allocated.
Marriage customs: Matrilineal descent, with inheritance through the mother's line; bridewealth modest; women hold substantial standing in land and household decisions.
Initiation rites: Age-set organisation with public recognition; agricultural competence; instruction in clan land rights and their history.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Eritrea and Ethiopia, at national rather than community level — 19 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
8 dishes
also Injera
Fermented teff flatbread, the plate and the cutlery of every Eritrean meal. Sour, spongy and torn to pick up whatever is spooned onto it.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also Spiced lentils, Birsen
Brown or red lentils cooked with berbere and onion until thick, the everyday Eritrean stew and the fasting-day mainstay.
Serves 6 · 55 minutes
Beef stewed slowly in berbere and onion until the sauce goes deep red and the meat surrenders. Served on taita with a hard-boiled egg, and Eritrea's central dish.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes
also Ambasha
A slightly sweet celebration bread scored into a wheel pattern before baking, studded with raisins and scented with cardamom. Broken at gatherings and with coffee.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes
Chicken in berbere sauce with whole eggs, the dish made when a guest arrives or a family celebrates. The chicken is jointed into twelve pieces by custom.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Powdered chickpea or broad bean flour cooked into a smooth spiced purée, the fasting food of the Orthodox calendar and the everyday food of most households.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Mild vegetable stew, Alicha birsen
The mild counterpart to zigni: potatoes, carrots and cabbage stewed with turmeric and no chilli, for children, for fasting and for anyone who has had enough berbere.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
The coffee ceremony: beans roasted, ground and brewed in a jebena in front of the guests, poured in three rounds over an hour or more. Refusing to stay for all three is a slight.
Serves 4, three rounds · 1 hour
11 dishes
Fermented teff pancake, at once the plate, the utensil and the bread. Teff is native to the Ethiopian highlands and grows almost nowhere else.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also Red lentil stew, Misir wot
Red lentils cooked down with onion and berbere into a deep red stew. The backbone of the Ethiopian fasting table, eaten on the roughly 180 days a year the Orthodox calendar sets aside.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Chicken stewed for hours in berbere and an enormous quantity of onions cooked down without fat. Ethiopia's national dish, served at Christmas and Easter and to any guest worth the trouble.
Serves 8 · 3 hours
also Zilzil tibs, Sautéed meat
Beef or lamb cut in strips and seared fast with onion, rosemary, chilli and spiced butter, often brought to the table still sizzling on a clay brazier.
Serves 4 · 40 minutes
Lentil or minced beef pastries fried crisp, sold on Addis street corners and eaten to break the fast in Ramadan and during Orthodox fasting periods in their vegan form.
Serves Makes 24 · 1 hour
Raw minced beef warmed in spiced butter with mitmita and served with ayib cheese and kocho. A Gurage dish that became a national delicacy, ordered leb leb or fully raw.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
Ground chickpea flour cooked into a smooth spiced purée, the daily food of most Ethiopians and the mainstay of the 200-odd fasting days in the Orthodox year.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Collard greens, Ye'abesha gomen
Collard greens braised long and slow with onion, garlic and ginger until sweet and silky. The green on every Ethiopian platter and one of the fasting dishes.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Enset bread, False banana bread
Bread made from fermented enset — the false banana — scraped, buried in a lined pit for months and then baked flat. The staple of the Gurage, Sidama, Hadiya and Kambaata highlands, and Ethiopia's insurance against famine.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes, from prepared kocho dough
Honey wine fermented with gesho, a buckthorn twig used as a bittering agent, and drunk from a round-bottomed berele flask. Served in dedicated tej bets across the country.
Serves Makes 3 litres · 3 to 4 weeks
also Talla, Ethiopian home beer
Home-brewed beer of barley and gesho, the buckthorn leaf that stands in for hops. Cloudy, sour and low in alcohol, brewed for every wedding, funeral and saint's day.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 1 hour active, plus 5 to 8 days fermenting
A Language AloneLinguistic account
Kunama is Nilo-Saharan in a region otherwise dominated by Semitic and Cushitic languages, with no close relatives nearby. It is evidence of a much older population distribution in the Horn, before Semitic and Cushitic expansion. The people themselves say simply that they were here first, and the linguistics does not contradict them.
The Border WarContemporary account
The Eritrea-Ethiopia war of 1998–2000 was fought across Kunama land, which lies directly on the disputed frontier. Villages were destroyed, mined and depopulated, and thousands fled to camps in Ethiopia where many remain. A small people occupying contested ground has paid disproportionately for a dispute that was not theirs.
“The land belongs to the mother's house.”
Matrilineal land tenure.
“We were here before the languages came.”
The Kunama claim to precedence.
“A border drawn through a field feeds nobody.”
The war's effect.
Creation: Anna, the creator, made the world; ancestors and land spirits govern fertility; the religion is neither Christian nor Islamic in origin, though both have made inroads.
Beliefs: Anna as high God; ancestor veneration with offerings; rain-making; Christianity and Islam both present, with the older system persisting in the villages.
Ancestors: Matrilineal ancestors determine land rights; graves and clan sites anchor claims that displacement has disrupted.
Anna
The creator
Ancestors
Honoured with offerings and consulted about land and fertility
Land spirits
Powers of specific fields and river places
Traditional settlements: Villages of round mud houses with conical thatch, granaries and cattle enclosures, on the plains between the rivers.
Building techniques: Mud and wattle with thatch; raised granaries; wells and river-margin cultivation.
Village layout: Compounds around a courtyard with granary and cattle pen; village around an assembly space; fields on the plain.
Kunama sword and shield
Performance
Equipment of the dances performed at funerals and celebrations.
Granaries
Agriculture
Stores of a productive sorghum and sesame agriculture.
Beadwork and hairstyles
Craft
Ornament marking age, status and clan.
Kunama language documentation
Language heritage
Records of a Nilo-Saharan language isolated in the Horn.
Ancient
Nilo-Saharan-speaking populations occupy the western Eritrean lowlands before Semitic and Cushitic expansion.
1800s
Raiding from Ethiopian, Egyptian and Sudanese forces; the Kunama resist and lose ground.
1890–1941
Italian colonial rule; the region is farmed for export crops.
1961–1991
The liberation war divides Kunama communities between movements.
1998–2000
The border war devastates Kunama land; thousands flee to Ethiopia.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources