Gozo
Cassava flour cooked into a stiff paste, the daily starch of the Central African Republic. Rolled in the palm and dipped in whatever sauce there is.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
The cattle nomads of the savanna — Fulani herders who moved into the Central African Republic in the twentieth century, whose herds were the country's largest export, and who were driven out or killed in tens of thousands after 2013.
Population: Estimated over 100,000 before 2013; a large share has since fled to Cameroon and Chad
Location: The western and central savanna — Ouham-Pendé, Nana-Mambéré and the Bouar plateau
Language: Fulfulde
Language family: Niger-Congo → Atlantic → Fula
Traditional governance: Lineage groups under an ardo leading each migratory unit; the Fédération Nationale des Éleveurs Centrafricains historically represented herders to the state.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Wodaabe-related lineages
Groups retaining the most mobile pastoral practice.
Semi-settled herders
Families with fixed dry-season bases and herds moved by hired herdsmen.
Refugee communities
Populations displaced to Cameroon and Chad since 2013, many now permanently settled there.
Clothing: Embroidered tunics and conical hats; women's heavy silver and amber, braided hair and facial tattooing in the older tradition.
Food: Milk as the centre of the diet, with millet and maize obtained by trade; meat rarely, since the herd is capital.
Ceremonies: Cattle-naming and praise; the sharing out of herds between sons; weddings with drumming; the seasonal departure to wet-season pasture.
Marriage customs: First marriage arranged between cousins in childhood; later marriages more freely chosen; bridewealth in cattle.
Initiation rites: No formal male initiation; a young man's acquisition of his own cattle and his handling of a herd on transhumance mark adulthood.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Central African Republic, Cameroon and Chad, at national rather than community level — 33 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
10 dishes
Cassava flour cooked into a stiff paste, the daily starch of the Central African Republic. Rolled in the palm and dipped in whatever sauce there is.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Gozo ball, Cassava fufu
Cassava flour worked into a smooth dense ball, the Central African staple, torn off and used to lift sauce. Made in every household daily.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Meatballs of beef and ground squash seeds cooked in a tomato and groundnut sauce, wrapped in leaves in the traditional version. A dish of the Ubangi river country.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Groundnut sauce, Kanda ti nyma
Groundnut paste cooked with meat, tomato and chilli into a thick red-brown sauce, the dish that turns up at every Central African table.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Fried dough balls sold at markets and roadsides with sweet tea, eaten at breakfast or bought by the handful for a journey.
Serves Makes 20 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Peanut brittle bar, Kanyah
Roasted peanuts pounded with sugar and a little rice flour and pressed into bars, sold at markets and bus stops across the Central African Republic.
Serves Makes about 20 bars · 40 minutes
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, made for guests and celebrations across the Congo basin. Orange, rich and served over cassava.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Forest vine leaves shredded very fine and cooked with palm oil, smoked fish and groundnut. The same plant as Cameroonian eru, gathered from the same forest.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Smoked fish with greens
Smoked river fish cooked with cassava or gnetum leaves and palm oil, the standard meal along the Ubangi and its tributaries.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Maize or cassava beer fermented in villages and drunk from a shared vessel at gatherings and funerals. Cloudy, sour and drunk young.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 3 days
12 dishes
Maize flour beaten into a smooth stiff paste, eaten with njama njama or huckleberry greens in the north-west. The standard plate of the Anglophone highlands.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Koki corn, Ekoki
Black-eyed beans ground to a paste with palm oil and spinach, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed into a savoury pudding. A Cameroonian street and household staple.
Serves 8 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
Bitterleaf boiled repeatedly to draw out the bitterness, then cooked with ground groundnuts, shrimp and meat. Cameroon's national dish, from the Douala coast.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
also Black stew, Sauce noire
Fish or meat in a jet-black sauce made from burnt spices — mbongo seed, country onion and njangsa — from the Bassa country around Edéa. Smoky, bitter and unlike anything else in Africa.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Beef skewers rubbed in a groundnut and chilli spice mix and grilled over charcoal, sold from evening braziers across the north and in every Yaoundé quarter.
Serves Makes 12 · 40 minutes, plus 2 hours marinating
Wild forest vine leaves shredded fine and cooked with waterleaf, palm oil and smoked fish, from the south-west. Made for celebrations and eaten with water fufu.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Yellow soup, Taro fufu and yellow soup
Pounded taro served with a bright yellow palm-oil soup coloured with limestone, the ceremonial dish of Cameroon's North West grassfields, eaten with the fingers from a shared bowl.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes
Chicken with fried ripe plantain and vegetables, whose name stands for Directeur Général because it was originally what you served a man of importance.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Plantain and goat stew
Goat and unripe plantain stewed with country onion and njangsa until the plantain thickens the pot. A grassfields dish cooked for visitors and for the head of the household.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Maize and cassava leaf
Fresh maize kernels cooked with cassava leaf and palm oil into a thick green-and-gold porridge. A Beti and southern Cameroonian dish of the maize harvest.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Hibiscus juice with pineapple, ginger and mint, sold from freezers in the north and served cold at every celebration. Cameroon's name for what is bissap elsewhere.
Serves 8 · 30 minutes, plus chilling
also Millet beer, Bilibili
Sorghum beer of northern Cameroon, brewed by women in great clay pots and sold from the compound door. Sour, cloudy and drunk from a shared calabash.
Serves Makes about 8 litres · 1 hour active, plus 4 days germinating and 3 days fermenting
11 dishes
also Aiysh
Millet or sorghum porridge shaped into a ball and served with sauce, the daily food of most of Chad. Eaten by hand from a shared bowl by the whole household.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Okra sauce, Sauce gluante
Dried okra powder cooked into a deliberately viscous sauce with meat and sesame, ladled over boule. The stringiness is the point and the mark of a good one.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 20 minutes
Okra, sweet potato, aubergine and greens stewed with groundnut paste into a thick vegetable sauce, served over la boule. Chad's national dish and almost always meatless.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Minced beef with spices
Beef minced or finely chopped and fried hard with onion, tomato and spice until dry and crisp at the edges, served with boule or bread across Chad.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate, the same as Sudanese kisra and eaten across eastern Chad with stew.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
Whole mutton grilled over embers for Eid and for guests, seasoned with nothing more than salt and cumin. The animal itself is the statement.
Serves 10 · 3 hours 30 minutes
also Spiced hibiscus drink
Hibiscus steeped with ginger, cloves and mint, the Chadian festival and Ramadan drink, sweeter and more heavily spiced than the Sudanese karkade.
Serves Makes 2 litres · 30 minutes, plus 3 hours steeping
Fish from the Chari or Lake Chad, split, salted, sun-dried and then grilled, from the Sara country of the south. The smell of the drying racks carries for a long way.
Serves 4 · 40 minutes, plus 2 days drying
also Dried fish stew, Salanga en sauce
The Chari's sun-dried fish rehydrated and stewed with tomato, onion and dried okra, the everyday protein of the Chadian river country.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Millet beer brewed and sold by women from courtyards in southern Chad, drunk warm and cloudy from a calabash. A marked pot outside means today's batch is ready.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
also Millet porridge, Bouillie
Millet porridge soured overnight and thinned with milk or tamarind, drunk in the morning and at the breaking of the fast across the Chadian sahel.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes, plus overnight souring
The Wealth That Could Be Driven AwayContemporary account
Cattle were among the Central African Republic's most valuable assets and, being mobile, among the easiest to seize. As the state collapsed after 2013, armed groups on all sides took herds by the thousand. For Mbororo families this was not simply robbery but the destruction of the entire basis of life, since a herd is savings, insurance, bridewealth and inheritance at once.
Targeted TwiceContemporary account
Because Mbororo are Muslim, anti-balaka militias treated them as enemies after 2013; because they are herders whose cattle damage crops, they had existing frictions with farming communities. Human rights investigators documented mass killings and the forced displacement of most of the population. Some armed groups also recruited from among them, which deepened the cycle.
“The cow is not sold; the cow is inherited.”
The herd as lineage rather than commodity.
“A Pullo does not say he is hungry.”
Pulaaku, the code of restraint.
“Grass follows rain and we follow grass.”
Mobility as strategy.
Creation: Islamic cosmology; older Fulani traditions about the emergence of cattle from water survive in song and story.
Beliefs: Sunni Islam, in some communities lightly observed; belief in charms and protective medicine; the ethical code of pulaaku carrying much of the weight elsewhere given to doctrine.
Ancestors: Lineage genealogy determines herd rights and marriage; named cattle lines carry their own genealogy alongside the human one.
Allah
The one God
The first cattle
Emergent from water in Fulani origin narrative
Protective medicines
Prepared by specialists for the herd and the household
Traditional settlements: Temporary camps of mat and stick shelters arranged around the herd; dry-season bases with more substantial huts.
Building techniques: Mat and sapling construction, portable and quickly rebuilt; thorn enclosures for cattle; calabash storage as the household's only furniture.
Village layout: Camp arranged around the cattle rope line with beds and calabash displays in a fixed order, reproduced wherever the camp stops.
Calabash displays
Craft
Stacked decorated gourds representing a woman's inherited wealth.
Silver and amber ornament
Craft
Women's jewellery, portable wealth and marker of standing.
Zebu herds
Livelihood
The cattle that were the country's largest export before 2013.
Herding gear
Craft
Staffs, ropes and milk containers of a mobile life.
1920s–1950s
Fulani herders move south into the Central African Republic's savanna in growing numbers.
1960s–1990s
Cattle become a major national asset; herder-farmer frictions grow with population.
2000s
Armed banditry (zaraguina) targets herders for cattle and ransom.
2013–2015
State collapse; anti-balaka violence drives most Mbororo out of the country.
Present
Large refugee populations in Cameroon and Chad; the national herd is a fraction of its former size.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources