StapleGabon
Bâton de Manioc
also Chikwangue
Fermented cassava paste wrapped in leaves and steamed into a dense sour stick, kept for days and eaten with every sauce. The Congo basin's bread.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus 3 days fermenting
Myènè
The coastal traders of Gabon — Mpongwe, Orungu and Nkomi peoples of the estuary and the lagoons who brokered the Atlantic trade for three centuries, whose land became Libreville, and whose mukudji white masks are among Africa's most recognised sculptures.
Myènè people
D Maerre hodt nu ueiste gohe Wang se myene geystel gsehn - btv1b10201000j.jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Identity
Population: Around 100,000, historically influential far beyond their numbers
Location: The Gabon estuary at Libreville, Cape Lopez at Port-Gentil, and the Fernan Vaz and Nkomi lagoons
Language: Myènè (Mpongwe, Orungu, Nkomi and related varieties)
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (B10)
Traditional governance: Clan heads and trading houses; the Orungu kingdom at Cape Lopez; today Gabonese administration, with Myènè families prominent in the professions and the church.
Clans, Sections & Sub-groups (3)
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Mpongwe
Of the Gabon estuary, whose treaty with France in 1839 led to Libreville.
Orungu
Of Cape Lopez, whose kingdom controlled a major slaving port.
Nkomi and Galwa
Lagoon and river communities of the interior waterways.
Gallery
1 images
Culture
Clothing: Imported cloth from the earliest trading period; the pagne wrapper; ceremonial dress with beads and imported goods marking rank.
Food: Fish and shellfish, cassava and plantain, palm oil, and the imported goods that trade brought early — a coastal cuisine with three centuries of Atlantic influence.
Ceremonies: Bwiti initiation with iboga, shared with neighbouring peoples; the mukudji masked dance on stilts at funerals; the ndjembe women's society; elaborate mourning cycles.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth in trade goods and cash; matrilineal elements in inheritance; nineteenth-century Myènè families intermarried extensively with European traders.
Initiation rites: Bwiti initiation involving the iboga root and a night-long visionary ordeal; the ndjembe society for women; mission schooling as an alternative formation from the 1840s.
Food & Recipes
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Gabon, at national rather than community level — 10 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
StapleGabon
Nkumu
also Gnetum leaves, Koko gabonais
Gnetum forest leaves shredded to threads and cooked with palm oil, groundnut and smoked fish. The green that appears on Gabonese plates more than any other.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
National dishGabon
Poulet Nyembwe
Chicken in palm nut sauce, Gabon's national dish, cooked with the pulp of the oil palm rather than its oil. Served with bâton de manioc or rice.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Street foodGabon
Brochettes de Poisson
Fish skewers grilled at roadside braziers in Libreville and Port-Gentil, served with fried plantain and a chilli sauce.
Serves Makes 12 · 40 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating
Street foodGabon
Atanga
also African pear, Safou
The purple African pear, softened in hot water or over embers until it turns buttery, salted and eaten with bread or roast maize. Gabon's seasonal obsession.
Serves 4 · 15 minutes
Festival & feastGabon
Odika
also Chocolat indigène
Wild mango kernels ground and pressed into dark blocks, melted into a rich sauce with fish or meat. Gabonese call it indigenous chocolate for its colour and its keeping.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Regional specialityGabon
Feuilles de Manioc
Pounded cassava leaves with palm oil, smoked fish and groundnut, cooked long. The Congo basin's most-eaten green, and Gabon's version leans on the groundnut.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
Regional specialityGabon
Poisson au Nyembwe
also Fish in palm nut sauce
Fish cooked in the thick orange pulp of the palm nut, the sauce that defines Gabonese cooking and gives the national chicken dish its name.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Regional specialityGabon
Folong
also Amaranth greens
Amaranth leaves stewed with tomato, onion and smoked fish, the simplest and commonest Gabonese green dish.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Drink & sweetGabon
Vin de Palme
Palm wine tapped from raffia or oil palms, drunk fresh or fermented, and central to Bwiti ceremony as well as ordinary sociability.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
Stories & Oral Literature
The Treaty and the TownHistorical account
In 1839 the Mpongwe ruler known to the French as Denis signed a treaty ceding rights on the estuary. In 1849 the French settled freed captives from an intercepted slave ship at the site and called it Libreville. Gabon's capital sits on Mpongwe land acquired through documents whose terms the two sides understood very differently.
The White MaskArt history
The mukudji or okuyi mask, a serene white-faced female form with a high coiffure, is danced on stilts at funerals. Kaolin white marks the world of the dead. The masks reached Paris early and were among the African objects that Vlaminck, Derain and Picasso saw; they remain among the most reproduced images of African art.
Proverbs
“The estuary sees the ship before the village does.”
The broker's advantage.
“White is the colour of those who have gone.”
The mask's kaolin and its meaning.
“Trade builds the house that trade can burn.”
Dependence on the Atlantic economy.
Mythology & Spiritual Beliefs
Creation: A high creator, Anyambe, with ancestral and water powers active; the dead are central and the mask tradition addresses them directly.
Beliefs: Bwiti with iboga-induced vision; ancestor veneration; water spirits of the estuary and lagoons; Catholic and Protestant Christianity established since the 1840s and often held alongside Bwiti.
Ancestors: Ancestral relics and the Bwiti path to meeting the dead are central; the masked dance is a visit from them rather than a representation.
Gods, Goddesses & Spirits
Anyambe
The creator
The ancestors
Reached through Bwiti and represented by the white masks
Water spirits
Powers of estuary and lagoon
Architecture
Traditional settlements: Estuary and lagoon villages of timber and later imported materials; Libreville's colonial core on Mpongwe land; trading houses of the nineteenth century.
Building techniques: Timber and raffia construction; imported board and iron from the trade period; Bwiti temples of timber with painted decoration.
Village layout: Village facing the water with canoes in front; the Bwiti temple apart, entered by initiates.
Artifacts
Mukudji white mask
Performance
Kaolin-whitened female mask danced on stilts at funerals.
Bwiti temple objects
Ritual
Harps, drums and mirrors of the initiation tradition.
Trade goods archive
Archive
Material record of three centuries of Atlantic brokerage.
Ngombi harp
Instrument
Sacred harp of Bwiti ceremony.
Historical Timeline
1500s–1700s
Myènè communities broker Atlantic trade on the estuary and at Cape Lopez.
1839–1849
Treaties with France; Libreville founded with freed captives on Mpongwe land.
1800s
Missions establish schools; Myènè families become the region's clerks, clergy and traders.
1960
Independence; Myènè prominence in the professions continues.
Present
Bwiti is practised widely across Gabon; the white masks remain a national emblem.
Sources & Further Reading
Open sources
- Britannica: Gabon — peopleEncyclopaedia Britannica
- Gabonese masks — museum collectionsMusée du quai Branly
Premium & scholarly sources