Fufu
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Farmers of the Ubangi hinterland whose gaza initiation took boys into the forest for months, whose harp-zithers and slit drums furnished a distinctive music, and whose villages sit across a border that Central African conflict repeatedly pushes people over.
Population: Estimated 1 to 1.5 million across the DR Congo and the CAR
Location: Sud-Ubangi and Nord-Ubangi provinces of the DR Congo around Gemena, and the Lobaye and southern CAR
Language: Ngbaka (Ngbaka Ma'bo and related varieties)
Language family: Niger-Congo → Adamawa-Ubangi → Ubangian
Traditional governance: Lineage and village authority; the gaza association historically providing a structure across villages; Congolese and Central African administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Ngbaka of Gemena
The main Congolese concentration.
Ngbaka Ma'bo
Communities of the Lobaye in the CAR.
Ngbaka Manza
A related community of the central CAR.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; barkcloth and raffia in the older tradition; the gaza initiate's clay, feather and fibre regalia at emergence.
Food: Cassava and plantain, groundnuts, palm oil, forest game, caterpillars and mushrooms in season, and palm wine.
Ceremonies: Gaza initiation and emergence; ancestral offerings; funerals; hunting rites; harvest observances.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in goods and iron; gaza membership was a prerequisite for a man to marry in the older order.
Initiation rites: Gaza: boys taken into a forest camp for months, circumcised, instructed, subjected to ordeal and taught the association's songs and prohibitions, returning covered in clay and treated as newborn.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Democratic Republic of the Congo and Central African Republic, at national rather than community level — 22 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
12 dishes
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Congolese beans, Haricots
Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée
Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Beignets
Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.
Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée
Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels
Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Saka saka
Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe
Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Palm wine
Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
also Congolese maize spirit
Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.
Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling
10 dishes
Cassava flour cooked into a stiff paste, the daily starch of the Central African Republic. Rolled in the palm and dipped in whatever sauce there is.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Gozo ball, Cassava fufu
Cassava flour worked into a smooth dense ball, the Central African staple, torn off and used to lift sauce. Made in every household daily.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Meatballs of beef and ground squash seeds cooked in a tomato and groundnut sauce, wrapped in leaves in the traditional version. A dish of the Ubangi river country.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Groundnut sauce, Kanda ti nyma
Groundnut paste cooked with meat, tomato and chilli into a thick red-brown sauce, the dish that turns up at every Central African table.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Fried dough balls sold at markets and roadsides with sweet tea, eaten at breakfast or bought by the handful for a journey.
Serves Makes 20 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Peanut brittle bar, Kanyah
Roasted peanuts pounded with sugar and a little rice flour and pressed into bars, sold at markets and bus stops across the Central African Republic.
Serves Makes about 20 bars · 40 minutes
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, made for guests and celebrations across the Congo basin. Orange, rich and served over cassava.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Forest vine leaves shredded very fine and cooked with palm oil, smoked fish and groundnut. The same plant as Cameroonian eru, gathered from the same forest.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Smoked fish with greens
Smoked river fish cooked with cassava or gnetum leaves and palm oil, the standard meal along the Ubangi and its tributaries.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Maize or cassava beer fermented in villages and drunk from a shared vessel at gatherings and funerals. Cloudy, sour and drunk young.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 3 days
GazaInitiation tradition
The gaza took boys out of the village into a forest camp for a period of months, where they were circumcised, given a new name, taught a body of songs, prohibitions and secret vocabulary, and put through physical ordeal. They emerged whitened with clay, feigning ignorance of ordinary life, and were reintroduced to their families as though newly born. Missions and the colonial administration both worked against it; it declined through the twentieth century and survives in reduced form in some areas.
The Harp-ZitherMusical tradition
Ngbaka music centres on the kundi arched harp and, distinctively, on harp-zithers and multiple-bow instruments in which several strings are stretched over a single resonator. Ethnomusicologists working in the Ubangi in the mid-twentieth century recorded a repertoire of narrative song, hunting music and gaza material that is among the better-documented in central Africa, and which fed into the Congolese popular music that spread from Kinshasa.
Across the Border, Both WaysContemporary history
The Central African Republic's conflicts since 2013 have driven tens of thousands of people across the Ubangi into Congolese Ngbaka country, into settlements around Zongo and Libenge. Earlier, Congolese wars pushed movement the other way. Ngbaka households on both banks are related, and the border is crossed by canoe for markets, funerals and refuge. Aid agencies count refugees; the community counts relatives.
“The one who came out of the forest does not remember the village.”
On gaza emergence, and on transformation.
“Many strings, one gourd.”
On the harp-zither, and on a community of many lineages.
“The river is a door, not a wall.”
On the Ubangi border.
Creation: Gale as the creator in Ngbaka tradition, with a body of narrative about the first beings and the origin of death; ancestral spirits; forest powers.
Beliefs: Gaza's teaching as the core of transmitted knowledge; ancestral offerings; divination and oracle; Catholic and Protestant Christianity now dominant, with strong Evangelical presence around Gemena.
Ancestors: The dead are buried near the village and addressed at lineage sites; gaza membership rather than descent alone conferred adult standing.
Gale
The creator of Ngbaka tradition
Ancestral spirits
Addressed at lineage sites in health and misfortune
Forest powers
Presences of the gaza camps and of named hunting grounds
Traditional settlements: Villages of rectangular houses along a cleared street in the forest-savannah margin, with the gaza camp built apart and out of sight.
Building techniques: Pole and mud with thatch or leaf roofing; the gaza camp built of forest materials and abandoned after use; harp and slit-drum making; raffia weaving.
Village layout: Two lines of houses along a swept street with gardens behind; the initiation camp deep in the forest, its location known only to initiates.
Kundi arched harp
Instrument
Five-string harp of the Ubangi, often with a carved head at the neck.
Harp-zither
Instrument
Multiple-bow instrument with strings over a single resonator, distinctive to the region.
Gaza masks and regalia
Ritual object
Clay, feather and fibre materials of the initiation and emergence.
Slit drums
Instrument
Signal and dance drums of the Ubangi forest.
Pre-1800
Ubangian-speaking communities settle the hinterland behind the Ubangi's south bank.
1880s–1900s
Free State rubber exactions devastate the Ubangi; missions establish at Gemena and in the Lobaye.
1920s–1960s
Gaza declines under mission and administrative pressure; Ngbaka music is recorded by ethnomusicologists.
1960s–1990s
Gemena develops as a regional centre; Ngbaka are prominent in Zairean public life.
2013–present
Central African conflict drives tens of thousands across the Ubangi into Congolese Ngbaka territory.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources