Fufu
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
Fishers and forest farmers of Lake Mai-Ndombe and the Tumba swamps, whose lake was renamed for the black water it holds, and whose region became the site of the world's largest forest-carbon project and of the 1990s Congo's most notorious rubber-era memory.
Population: Estimated 200,000 to 400,000
Location: Mai-Ndombe province, DR Congo, around Lake Mai-Ndombe, Lake Tumba and the Inongo and Bikoro areas
Language: Lontomba, with related varieties
Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (C35, Mongo group)
Traditional governance: Chiefdoms with lineage heads; historically the Bolia kingdom exercised authority over parts of the lake region; Congolese territorial administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Ntomba of Lake Mai-Ndombe
The lakeshore fishing communities around Inongo.
Ntomba of Lake Tumba
Communities of the northern swamp lake around Bikoro.
Bolia
A closely related community with a kingdom tradition of its own.
Batwa of the lakes
Forest-origin communities in a long client relationship with Ntomba villages.
Clothing: Contemporary dress; raffia and barkcloth historically; ceremonial regalia at chiefly installations.
Food: Lake and river fish above all, cassava and plantain, palm oil, forest game, caterpillars and mushrooms in season, and palm wine.
Ceremonies: Chiefly installations; fishing rites at named waters; ancestral offerings; funerals with drumming; the collective fish drives on the flooded forest.
Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in goods and, historically, in copper crosses and iron; the Batwa client relationship affects who may marry whom.
Initiation rites: Boys' circumcision with instruction; the practical passage is into the fishing economy, with its inherited rights to particular waters.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Democratic Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 12 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
also Congolese beans, Haricots
Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.
Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking
also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe
Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée
Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating
also Beignets
Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.
Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes
also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée
Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.
Serves 4 · 25 minutes
Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.
Serves 4 · 1 hour
also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels
Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
also Saka saka
Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes
also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe
Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
also Palm wine
Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
also Congolese maize spirit
Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.
Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling
Black WaterNatural history
Lake Mai-Ndombe takes its name from the Lingala for black water: tannins leached from the flooded forest stain it dark. It is one of Africa's largest lakes by area in flood and one of the shallowest, expanding and contracting by thousands of square kilometres with the season. The surrounding peatlands, mapped in the 2010s, form part of the Cuvette Centrale complex — the largest tropical peatland in the world, holding carbon equivalent to several years of global fossil-fuel emissions.
The Rubber CountryColonial history
Bikoro and the Lake Tumba region were at the centre of the Congo Free State's Abir rubber concession, whose exactions Roger Casement documented in his 1904 report and E. D. Morel campaigned against. The testimony collected there — of hostage-taking, of hands severed as proof of expended cartridges, of villages destroyed for shortfalls — was the evidence that ended Leopold's personal rule over the Congo in 1908. The place names in Casement's report are the villages of this community.
Carbon and the ForestContemporary history
Mai-Ndombe has hosted the world's largest forest-carbon project by area, a REDD+ programme covering some 300,000 hectares, and further concessions and emission-reduction programmes across the province. Assessments have raised sustained questions about the baselines used, the permanence of the claimed reductions and how much reached the communities on whose customary land the forest stands. The province is therefore a test case for whether forest carbon delivers anything to the people who live in the forest.
“The lake is small in the dry season and remembers where it was.”
On the flood cycle, and on claims.
“The forest that was taken for rubber is being counted again.”
A modern remark connecting two extractions.
“A net is inherited with the water it is set in.”
On fishing rights.
Creation: A creator god of the Mongo tradition; ancestral spirits; the lake, the flooded forest and named channels carrying powers and prohibitions.
Beliefs: Ancestral offerings; fishing rites at named waters; divination and healing; Catholic and Protestant Christianity now dominant, with Kimbanguist and Pentecostal churches present.
Ancestors: Fishing rights to particular waters descend within lineages, and the ancestors are addressed in those terms as much as at graves.
The creator
The remote high god of the Mongo world
Water powers
Presences of the lake, the swamps and named channels, addressed before fishing
Ancestral spirits
Addressed at lineage sites for health and for the fishery
Traditional settlements: Villages on the lakeshore and along channels, houses raised where flooding requires it, with landings and drying racks below.
Building techniques: Pole and mud or raffia walling with leaf and thatch roofing, raised on posts in flood-prone ground; dugout canoes; woven fish traps and weirs set in the flooded forest.
Village layout: Houses facing the water with canoes and racks below, gardens on the higher ground behind, and the fishing grounds allocated by lineage.
Flooded-forest fish traps
Craft
Woven traps and weirs set in the seasonal flood, with rights inherited by lineage.
Cuvette Centrale peatlands
Natural heritage
The world's largest tropical peatland, mapped in the 2010s, underlying the region.
Casement report sites
Historical site
Villages of the Lake Tumba region whose testimony ended Leopold's personal rule.
Lake canoes
Craft
Dugouts worked on a lake that changes area by thousands of square kilometres a year.
Pre-1800
Mongo-related communities settle the lakes and swamps of the central Congo basin as fishers and farmers.
1892–1906
The Abir rubber concession devastates the Lake Tumba region.
1903–1908
Casement's report and Morel's campaign end Leopold's personal rule; the Congo becomes a Belgian colony.
1960s–1990s
Independence; the region's transport and services decay; the fishery remains the economy.
2011–present
REDD+ forest-carbon projects are established across Mai-Ndombe; the Cuvette Centrale peatlands are mapped and become a global climate concern.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources