Ntomba

Fishers and forest farmers of Lake Mai-Ndombe and the Tumba swamps, whose lake was renamed for the black water it holds, and whose region became the site of the world's largest forest-carbon project and of the 1990s Congo's most notorious rubber-era memory.

Identity

Population: Estimated 200,000 to 400,000

Location: Mai-Ndombe province, DR Congo, around Lake Mai-Ndombe, Lake Tumba and the Inongo and Bikoro areas

Language: Lontomba, with related varieties

Language family: Niger-Congo → Bantu (C35, Mongo group)

Traditional governance: Chiefdoms with lineage heads; historically the Bolia kingdom exercised authority over parts of the lake region; Congolese territorial administration.

Clans, Sections & Sub-groups (4)

Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.

Ntomba of Lake Mai-Ndombe

The lakeshore fishing communities around Inongo.

Ntomba of Lake Tumba

Communities of the northern swamp lake around Bikoro.

Bolia

A closely related community with a kingdom tradition of its own.

Batwa of the lakes

Forest-origin communities in a long client relationship with Ntomba villages.

Culture

Clothing: Contemporary dress; raffia and barkcloth historically; ceremonial regalia at chiefly installations.

Food: Lake and river fish above all, cassava and plantain, palm oil, forest game, caterpillars and mushrooms in season, and palm wine.

Ceremonies: Chiefly installations; fishing rites at named waters; ancestral offerings; funerals with drumming; the collective fish drives on the flooded forest.

Marriage customs: Patrilineal and clan-exogamous; bridewealth in goods and, historically, in copper crosses and iron; the Batwa client relationship affects who may marry whom.

Initiation rites: Boys' circumcision with instruction; the practical passage is into the fishing economy, with its inherited rights to particular waters.

Food & Recipes

Every dish the Atlas publishes for Democratic Republic of the Congo, at national rather than community level — 12 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.

StapleDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Fufu

Cassava and maize flour beaten into a firm dough, the daily food of most of the Congo. Rolled in the fingers, dented with the thumb, and used to scoop.

Serves 6 · 30 minutes

StapleDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Madesu

also Congolese beans, Haricots

Red beans stewed with onion, tomato and palm oil until thick, the cheapest and most eaten dish in Kinshasa. Served with fufu or rice and a spoon of chilli.

Serves 6 · 2 hours, plus overnight soaking

National dishDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Poulet à la Moambé

also Moambe chicken, Nsusu na mwambe

Chicken cooked in palm nut pulp with chilli and garlic, the national dish of both Congos. The palm oil rising orange to the surface is the sign it is ready.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes

National dishDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Ntaba

also Grilled goat, Chèvre braisée

Goat marinated in mustard, garlic and lemon then grilled slowly over charcoal, the Kinshasa nganda dish, eaten late with plantain and beer.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating

Street foodDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Mikate

also Beignets

Fried dough balls sold from basins by women at every Kinshasa junction, eaten hot at breakfast or as a snack with sweet coffee.

Serves Makes 24 · 2 hours 15 minutes

Street foodDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Makemba

also Grilled plantain, Banane braisée

Plantain grilled over charcoal until blistered and served with a fierce pili-pili, sold outside every Kinshasa bar and bus stop.

Serves 4 · 25 minutes

Festival & feastDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Liboke ya Mbisi

Fish steamed in a banana leaf parcel with onion, chilli and lime, the Congo river's signature method. Opened at the table so the steam and smell arrive together.

Serves 4 · 1 hour

Festival & feastDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Mbika

also Egusi in leaves, Pumpkin seed parcels

Ground melon seed mixed with fish or meat, wrapped in leaves and steamed until it sets into a savoury cake. A Congolese celebration dish and a market food.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes

Regional specialityDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Pondu

also Saka saka

Pounded cassava leaves cooked long with palm oil, smoked fish and aubergine. Eaten across the Congo basin and cooked for hours, since cassava leaves demand it.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 45 minutes

Regional specialityDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Sombe ya Kivu

also Kivu cassava leaves, Sombe

Cassava leaves pounded and cooked long with palm oil and smoked fish, the daily dish of the Kivu hills. Bitter, dark and cooked until it no longer is.

Serves 6 · 2 hours

Drink & sweetDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Malafu ya Ngasi

also Palm wine

Palm wine tapped from the oil palm and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sharp by evening. Poured for the ancestors before anyone else drinks.

Serves Varies · Tapped daily

Drink & sweetDemocratic Republic of the Congo

Lotoko

also Congolese maize spirit

Distilled maize or cassava spirit, made in the villages and drunk everywhere. Clear, strong and entirely unregulated — this is a description of a tradition rather than a recommendation.

Serves Varies · 5 to 7 days fermenting, plus distilling

Stories & Oral Literature

Black WaterNatural history

Lake Mai-Ndombe takes its name from the Lingala for black water: tannins leached from the flooded forest stain it dark. It is one of Africa's largest lakes by area in flood and one of the shallowest, expanding and contracting by thousands of square kilometres with the season. The surrounding peatlands, mapped in the 2010s, form part of the Cuvette Centrale complex — the largest tropical peatland in the world, holding carbon equivalent to several years of global fossil-fuel emissions.

The Rubber CountryColonial history

Bikoro and the Lake Tumba region were at the centre of the Congo Free State's Abir rubber concession, whose exactions Roger Casement documented in his 1904 report and E. D. Morel campaigned against. The testimony collected there — of hostage-taking, of hands severed as proof of expended cartridges, of villages destroyed for shortfalls — was the evidence that ended Leopold's personal rule over the Congo in 1908. The place names in Casement's report are the villages of this community.

Carbon and the ForestContemporary history

Mai-Ndombe has hosted the world's largest forest-carbon project by area, a REDD+ programme covering some 300,000 hectares, and further concessions and emission-reduction programmes across the province. Assessments have raised sustained questions about the baselines used, the permanence of the claimed reductions and how much reached the communities on whose customary land the forest stands. The province is therefore a test case for whether forest carbon delivers anything to the people who live in the forest.

Proverbs

The lake is small in the dry season and remembers where it was.

On the flood cycle, and on claims.

The forest that was taken for rubber is being counted again.

A modern remark connecting two extractions.

A net is inherited with the water it is set in.

On fishing rights.

Mythology & Spiritual Beliefs

Creation: A creator god of the Mongo tradition; ancestral spirits; the lake, the flooded forest and named channels carrying powers and prohibitions.

Beliefs: Ancestral offerings; fishing rites at named waters; divination and healing; Catholic and Protestant Christianity now dominant, with Kimbanguist and Pentecostal churches present.

Ancestors: Fishing rights to particular waters descend within lineages, and the ancestors are addressed in those terms as much as at graves.

Gods, Goddesses & Spirits

The creator

The remote high god of the Mongo world

Water powers

Presences of the lake, the swamps and named channels, addressed before fishing

Ancestral spirits

Addressed at lineage sites for health and for the fishery

Architecture

Traditional settlements: Villages on the lakeshore and along channels, houses raised where flooding requires it, with landings and drying racks below.

Building techniques: Pole and mud or raffia walling with leaf and thatch roofing, raised on posts in flood-prone ground; dugout canoes; woven fish traps and weirs set in the flooded forest.

Village layout: Houses facing the water with canoes and racks below, gardens on the higher ground behind, and the fishing grounds allocated by lineage.

Artifacts

Flooded-forest fish traps

Craft

Woven traps and weirs set in the seasonal flood, with rights inherited by lineage.

Cuvette Centrale peatlands

Natural heritage

The world's largest tropical peatland, mapped in the 2010s, underlying the region.

Casement report sites

Historical site

Villages of the Lake Tumba region whose testimony ended Leopold's personal rule.

Lake canoes

Craft

Dugouts worked on a lake that changes area by thousands of square kilometres a year.

Historical Timeline

  1. Pre-1800

    Mongo-related communities settle the lakes and swamps of the central Congo basin as fishers and farmers.

  2. 1892–1906

    The Abir rubber concession devastates the Lake Tumba region.

  3. 1903–1908

    Casement's report and Morel's campaign end Leopold's personal rule; the Congo becomes a Belgian colony.

  4. 1960s–1990s

    Independence; the region's transport and services decay; the fishery remains the economy.

  5. 2011–present

    REDD+ forest-carbon projects are established across Mai-Ndombe; the Cuvette Centrale peatlands are mapped and become a global climate concern.

Sources & Further Reading