Ladob
Plantain, cassava and sweet potato simmered in coconut milk with nutmeg and vanilla, served sweet as a pudding or savoury with salt fish. One name, two dishes.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
The people of the coral islands — copra workers and fishers scattered across a million square kilometres of ocean on Aldabra, Farquhar and the Amirantes, most of whose settlements have been closed and whose descendants now live on Mahé.
Population: A few hundred resident; several thousand of outer-island descent on the granitic islands
Location: The Amirantes, Alphonse, Farquhar, Providence and Aldabra groups, spread over more than a thousand kilometres of the western Indian Ocean
Language: Seselwa, with vocabulary particular to the copra and fishing life
Language family: French-lexified creole
Traditional governance: Administered from Mahé through the Islands Development Company; Aldabra is managed by the Seychelles Islands Foundation as a World Heritage site with no permanent population beyond staff.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Amirantes communities
Desroches, Poivre and D'Arros, the most consistently inhabited group.
Farquhar and Providence
The far south, worked for copra and periodically flattened by cyclones.
Aldabra staff and descendants
The atoll's research station personnel, and families who worked there before protection.
Clothing: Practical working dress for copra and fishing; the outer islands never developed a distinct costume, being places of work rather than of settlement.
Food: Fish, turtle and seabird historically, with rice and staples shipped in; coconut in every form; supply-ship dependence has always defined the diet.
Ceremonies: Improvised Catholic observance without resident clergy; the arrival of the supply ship as the event structuring the calendar; moutya at night as on the main islands.
Marriage customs: Consensual union predominantly; small isolated populations with long separations imposed by contract work.
Initiation rites: None formal; a first contract on an outer island was the practical entry into adult working life for generations of Seychellois men.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Seychelles, at national rather than community level — 6 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Plantain, cassava and sweet potato simmered in coconut milk with nutmeg and vanilla, served sweet as a pudding or savoury with salt fish. One name, two dishes.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
Fish or chicken curry in coconut milk with curry leaves and green mango, the Seychellois national dish. Milder and more coconut-heavy than its Indian ancestors.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Red snapper or job fish scored, rubbed with chilli and garlic and grilled over coconut husks, served with a green mango or bilimbi chatini.
Serves 4 · 40 minutes
Green banana stewed with salt fish and coconut milk, served at family Sundays and at Creole festival. The bananas are cut in quarters, which is what the name means.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes, plus soaking
Shark meat boiled, shredded and pounded with lime, onion and bilimbi into a fibrous relish, eaten with rice. Unique to the islands and made from the by-catch.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Coconut toddy
Fermented coconut sap, drunk in the islands' interior and at Creole festivals. Sweet within hours of tapping and vigorously alcoholic by the next day.
Serves Varies · Tapped daily
The Atoll That Was Nearly an AirbaseConservation history
In the late 1960s Britain planned a military airfield on Aldabra, the world's second-largest coral atoll and home to some 100,000 giant tortoises. A scientific campaign led by the Royal Society stopped it, and the base went to Diego Garcia in the Chagos instead — with consequences for that population that are still being litigated. Aldabra became a World Heritage site in 1982.
Copra and the Closing of the IslandsEconomic history
For a century the outer islands ran on copra: coconuts dried and shipped to Mahé, worked by contract labour living for years at a time on atolls with no doctor. When copra prices collapsed and tourism rose, most settlements were closed and the workers relocated. The islands are now leases, research stations and resorts.
“The ship comes when it comes.”
Life at the end of a supply line.
“Count the coconuts, not the days.”
Contract work measured by output.
“The tortoise was here before the treaty.”
Said of Aldabra.
Creation: Catholic cosmology; the outer islands' narratives concern shipwreck, isolation and weather rather than origin.
Beliefs: Roman Catholicism practised without clergy for long periods; belief in spirits of particular islands and wrecks; strong superstition around turtles and seabirds.
Ancestors: Graves lie scattered across atolls now uninhabited, which makes commemoration a matter of chartering a boat.
The Catholic saints
Invoked without priests, in improvised observance
The Virgin
Petitioned for those at sea and in cyclone season
Spirits of the wrecks
Powers attached to the reefs that have taken ships
Traditional settlements: Copra settlements of timber and coral-block housing beside drying platforms and jetties, most now abandoned or converted.
Building techniques: Coral-block and timber construction; calorifère drying kilns for copra; jetties and boat channels blasted through reef.
Village layout: Settlement strung along the lagoon shore with the copra works at the centre, groves behind, jetty at the pass.
Copra kilns and drying platforms
Industry
Remains of the economy that sustained the outer islands for a century.
Aldabra Atoll
Heritage site
UNESCO World Heritage site with the world's largest giant tortoise population.
Outer-island pirogues
Craft
Small craft built for lagoon and reef work.
Supply-ship manifests
Archive
Records of the shipping that made habitation possible at all.
1700s–1800s
Outer islands exploited for turtles, timber and guano; settlement follows the coconut.
1900s–1960s
Copra economy at its height, worked by contract labour from the granitic islands.
1967–1971
The Aldabra airbase plan is defeated; the base is built on Diego Garcia instead.
1982
Aldabra inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Present
Most settlements closed; the islands are research stations, leases and resorts.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources