Funge
also Angu
Cassava or maize flour cooked to a smooth stiff paste, eaten under calulu and every other sauce on the islands.
Serves 6 · 25 minutes
The people of the smaller island — seven thousand of them under Príncipe's volcanic towers, keepers of a critically endangered creole, of the auto de floripes pageant, and of a biosphere reserve that covers their whole territory.
Population: ≈ 8,000
Location: Príncipe island, 150 kilometres north-east of São Tomé, with almost everyone in Santo António and the surrounding roças
Language: Lung'ie (Principense), critically endangered with a few dozen fluent speakers; Portuguese and Forro in daily use
Language family: Portuguese-lexified creole (Gulf of Guinea group)
Traditional governance: Autonomous region since 1995 with its own regional government and assembly within São Tomé and Príncipe.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Santo António
The island capital, the world's smallest by some measures, and the centre of the auto de floripes.
Roça communities
Families on Sundy, Belo Monte and Porto Real, descended from contracted workers.
Lung'ie speakers
The remaining fluent speakers, mostly elderly, the focus of documentation projects.
Clothing: Everyday tropical dress; for the auto de floripes, Moorish and Christian costume with masks, capes and wooden swords passed down within families.
Food: Fish, breadfruit, banana, palm oil and cocoa; the island's cocoa is now sold as single-origin and organic, its main export.
Ceremonies: The auto de floripes each August, a days-long pageant of Charlemagne and the Moors performed through the streets; saint days; wakes with sung lament.
Marriage customs: Consensual union widespread alongside church marriage, as on the larger island.
Initiation rites: Inheritance of a role in the floripes pageant is the closest thing to a formal passage, held within particular families across generations.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for São Tomé and Príncipe, at national rather than community level — 9 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
also Angu
Cassava or maize flour cooked to a smooth stiff paste, eaten under calulu and every other sauce on the islands.
Serves 6 · 25 minutes
Dried and fresh fish stewed with okra, aubergine and forest greens in palm oil, the national dish of São Tomé and shared with Angola. Served with funge or angu.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus soaking
Small fried fish or fritters sold in cones of paper at the market and the beach, eaten hot with chilli and lime.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
also Fried banana with fish
Fried plantain with a small grilled fish and a spoon of chilli, sold from stalls along São Tomé's waterfront and eaten standing up.
Serves 4 · 35 minutes
Beans stewed with pork, smoked meat and palm oil, made for Sundays and festivals. The Portuguese dish rebuilt with island ingredients.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes, plus soaking
A slow-cooked mix of fish, meat and vegetables in one pot, whose name suggests everything in the world went into it. Cooked on the roças and at village gatherings.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
also Palm nut and fish stew
Fish stewed in palm nut sauce with island herbs, a São Toméan dish that sits between the Gulf of Guinea mainland and the Portuguese kitchen.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Hot chocolate made from the islands' own cocoa, which once made São Tomé the world's largest producer. Ground with cinnamon and drunk thick.
Serves 4 · 20 minutes
also Cocoa punch
Sugarcane spirit steeped with cocoa nibs, cinnamon and condensed milk, from islands that once supplied a large share of the world's cocoa.
Serves Makes 1 litre · 20 minutes, plus 2 weeks steeping
The Auto de FloripesPageant
Every August Santo António stages a mediaeval Iberian story of the war between Charlemagne's knights and the Moors, in costume, over days, through the streets. Like tchiloli on the larger island it is a European text made local, but the Príncipe version keeps more of the battle and the conversion, and every family with a hereditary role turns out for it.
Eddington's EclipseScientific history
On 29 May 1919, from Roça Sundy on Príncipe, Arthur Eddington photographed a total solar eclipse and measured the deflection of starlight by the sun. The result was the first observational confirmation of general relativity and made Einstein famous overnight. The island marks the centenary site, and the roça still stands.
“Small island, long memory.”
Everything is known and nothing forgotten in a community of eight thousand.
“The sea is the road and the wall.”
Isolation as both protection and constraint.
“A language dies in the mouth of the last child who refuses it.”
Used by Lung'ie campaigners.
Creation: Catholic cosmology from settlement in the 1490s, over West Central African beliefs carried by the enslaved and later the contracted.
Beliefs: Catholicism with saint devotion; forest spirits of the obô; curandeiro healing; the pageant itself functioning as a moral and religious drama.
Ancestors: Wakes and anniversary masses; the roça cemeteries hold the contracted dead of three continents.
Nossa Senhora do Rosário
Patroness invoked in the island's processions
São Lourenço
Patron whose August feast frames the auto de floripes
Obô forest spirits
Powers of the rainforest that covers most of the island
Traditional settlements: Santo António's small colonial grid on the bay, roças scattered inland beneath the phonolite towers of Pico Papagaio and Pico de Príncipe.
Building techniques: Colonial masonry with tile roofs; timber stilt houses in the villages; the estate complexes of Sundy and Belo Monte with hospital, chapel and drying terraces.
Village layout: Town square, church and customs house at the water; estates laid out around a courtyard with the owner's house above and the labour lines below.
Auto de floripes costume and masks
Performance
Hereditary dress of the Moorish and Christian companies.
Roça Sundy
Heritage site
Estate from which the 1919 eclipse observation confirmed general relativity.
Lung'ie documentation
Language heritage
Recordings and dictionaries of the critically endangered island creole.
Príncipe cocoa
Livelihood
Single-origin organic cocoa, the island's principal export.
1500
Príncipe settled; sugar, then slaving, then cocoa shape its economy.
1753–1852
Santo António serves as capital of the whole colony.
1919
Eddington's eclipse expedition observes from Roça Sundy.
1995
Príncipe becomes an autonomous region with its own government.
2012
The whole island is designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources