Injera
Fermented teff pancake, at once the plate, the utensil and the bread. Teff is native to the Ethiopian highlands and grows almost nowhere else.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
Body-painters of the southwestern highlands — cattle-herders whose chalk, ochre and flower body-art has fascinated the world's photographers, whose saginye stick-duels decide reputation, and whose gold-rich land is now heavily contested.

Suri (Surma) people
Surma woman.jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: ≈ 30,000–40,000 in southwestern Ethiopia and adjacent South Sudan
Location: The Bench Maji highlands and lowlands west of the Omo — Kibish, Tulgit and Maji, on the South Sudanese frontier
Language: Suri (Chai, Tirma and Baale dialects)
Language family: Nilo-Saharan → Eastern Sudanic → Surmic
Traditional governance: Stateless: the komoru (ritual chief) mediates with the divine and blesses the land, while public assemblies of men debate and decide; age-grades structure male life; there is no coercive authority, and oratory is the instrument of politics.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Chai
The largest Suri group, of the Kibish and Koka areas.
Tirma (Tirmaga)
A major group of the northern Suri country.
Baale (Bale)
A smaller group with distinct history on the South Sudan frontier.
Related Surmic peoples
The Mursi, Me'en and Kwegu of the wider Omo–Sudan borderland.
1 images
Clothing: Little or no clothing traditionally, the body itself the medium — decorated with white chalk, ochre and ash in patterns applied freshly each day; women's lip-plates and stretched earlobes; elaborate headdresses of flowers, leaves, horns and fruit assembled and discarded within a day.
Food: Sorghum and maize, milk and blood from cattle, honey, wild plants; cattle are the measure of wealth and of every social transaction; the highlands and lowlands used seasonally for grazing and cultivation.
Ceremonies: Saginye (donga) stick-fighting tournaments between villages; age-grade transitions; the komoru's rain and fertility rites; cattle-blessing ceremonies; the daily, informal ceremony of body-painting itself.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth in cattle — high, often thirty to sixty head — accumulated by a young man and his kin over years; the stick-fight winner's prestige converts into marriage prospects; a woman's lip-plate is associated with her family's status and her own presentation.
Initiation rites: Age-grade advancement with public ceremony; saginye fighting as the young man's route to reputation and marriage; the komoru's office inherited within particular lineages.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Ethiopia and South Sudan, at national rather than community level — 20 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
11 dishes
Fermented teff pancake, at once the plate, the utensil and the bread. Teff is native to the Ethiopian highlands and grows almost nowhere else.
Serves Makes 8 · 45 minutes, plus 3 days fermenting
also Red lentil stew, Misir wot
Red lentils cooked down with onion and berbere into a deep red stew. The backbone of the Ethiopian fasting table, eaten on the roughly 180 days a year the Orthodox calendar sets aside.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
Chicken stewed for hours in berbere and an enormous quantity of onions cooked down without fat. Ethiopia's national dish, served at Christmas and Easter and to any guest worth the trouble.
Serves 8 · 3 hours
also Zilzil tibs, Sautéed meat
Beef or lamb cut in strips and seared fast with onion, rosemary, chilli and spiced butter, often brought to the table still sizzling on a clay brazier.
Serves 4 · 40 minutes
Lentil or minced beef pastries fried crisp, sold on Addis street corners and eaten to break the fast in Ramadan and during Orthodox fasting periods in their vegan form.
Serves Makes 24 · 1 hour
Raw minced beef warmed in spiced butter with mitmita and served with ayib cheese and kocho. A Gurage dish that became a national delicacy, ordered leb leb or fully raw.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
Ground chickpea flour cooked into a smooth spiced purée, the daily food of most Ethiopians and the mainstay of the 200-odd fasting days in the Orthodox year.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes
also Collard greens, Ye'abesha gomen
Collard greens braised long and slow with onion, garlic and ginger until sweet and silky. The green on every Ethiopian platter and one of the fasting dishes.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Enset bread, False banana bread
Bread made from fermented enset — the false banana — scraped, buried in a lined pit for months and then baked flat. The staple of the Gurage, Sidama, Hadiya and Kambaata highlands, and Ethiopia's insurance against famine.
Serves 6 · 40 minutes, from prepared kocho dough
Honey wine fermented with gesho, a buckthorn twig used as a bittering agent, and drunk from a round-bottomed berele flask. Served in dedicated tej bets across the country.
Serves Makes 3 litres · 3 to 4 weeks
also Talla, Ethiopian home beer
Home-brewed beer of barley and gesho, the buckthorn leaf that stands in for hops. Cloudy, sour and low in alcohol, brewed for every wedding, funeral and saint's day.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 1 hour active, plus 5 to 8 days fermenting
9 dishes
Thin fermented sorghum flatbread spread on a hot plate and peeled off in sheets, the base of every meal in the north of the country.
Serves Makes 12 · 30 minutes, plus 2 days fermenting
also Jute leaf stew, Khudra
Jute mallow leaves cooked to a thick green sauce with garlic and dried fish, poured over asida. Simple, cheap and eaten across the whole of South Sudan.
Serves 6 · 45 minutes
Sorghum porridge with a green sauce of okra or greens, the everyday meal across South Sudan. Turned out as a dome and eaten from the shared dish.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
also Okra and greens stew
Fresh okra and wild greens cooked down with sesame paste into a thick, deliberately slippery stew, eaten with asida. The South Sudanese household dish.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Dried Nile fish stewed with onion and groundnut into a thick sauce, eaten with asida. The Nile's fish is dried in quantity and traded far inland.
Serves 6 · 1 hour
A goat or bull killed and roasted whole for a wedding, a homecoming or the settlement of a dispute. In cattle-keeping societies the animal is the message.
Serves 12 or more · 4 hours
also Bread and meat platter
Torn flatbread layered with meat broth, yoghurt and fried onion, assembled in a great tray at Eid and at weddings and eaten communally.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
Sorghum or maize porridge with a simple bean or greens relish, eaten in the Equatorias. Plain food, and what most of the country eats most days.
Serves 6 · 50 minutes
Sorghum beer brewed and sold by women, drunk from calabashes at markets and gatherings. It is thick, sour and cloudy, and doubles as food.
Serves Makes about 5 litres · 4 days
Painted Fresh Each MorningBody-art tradition
The Suri paint themselves daily — chalk handprints, dotted lines drawn with fingertips, ash-grey washes, ochre stripes — inventing designs for the day and washing them off at evening. It is not costume but conversation: improvised, personal, endlessly renewed. The world's photographers arrive for it; the Suri were doing it long before anyone came with a camera.
The Stick That Wins a WifeContest tradition
In saginye, young men in minimal protection duel with long poles before their villages; the referee stops what he must, and the champion is carried to the girls. Reputation won here becomes cattle, and cattle become marriage. It is dangerous and it is central; the Suri have resisted every attempt to ban it.
The Gold Under the GrazingModern history
Suri land holds alluvial gold, and it also lies where Ethiopian, South Sudanese and commercial interests meet. Mining rushes, land concessions, resettlement pressure and armed conflict with neighbours and the state have all struck the Suri in recent decades — one of the sharpest collisions in the Horn between a stateless pastoral society and the modern extractive economy.
“Paint is finished when the day is finished.”
Beauty and self-presentation are for the living moment.
“A man without cattle speaks softly.”
Wealth in herds underwrites voice in the assembly.
“The pole tells the truth about the arm.”
Contest reveals real capacity — the saginye's justification.
Creation: Tumu, the sky divinity, is the supreme power, associated with rain and the sky's phenomena; the komoru mediates between Tumu, the land and the people; blessing, curse and the reading of sacrificial entrails structure the relationship between the human and the divine.
Beliefs: Tumu above; the komoru's ritual centrality; divination by entrails and by throwing sandals; the belief that the ritual chief's health and the land's fertility are bound together; missionary presence limited, and the traditional religion strong.
Ancestors: Ancestral blessing and the komoru's lineage anchor ritual authority; cattle genealogies parallel human ones; curses from elders are feared as real sanctions.
Tumu
The sky divinity — supreme power of rain and life
The komoru
The ritual chief whose blessing binds people, cattle and land
The ancestors
The dead honoured through cattle and remembered in genealogy
Traditional settlements: Villages of dome and cone-shaped grass houses within thorn enclosures on the highland ridges, with cattle camps in the lowlands during the dry season; grain stores raised on posts.
Building techniques: Bent-pole and grass-thatch construction; thorn fencing; light architecture matched to seasonal movement between highland cultivation and lowland grazing.
Village layout: Houses grouped by family with cattle enclosed; the village assembly ground where men debate; the saginye fighting grounds in cleared bush between villages.
Body-painting traditions
Body art
Daily-renewed chalk, ochre and ash designs — improvised body art that has become globally famous.
Floral and found-object headdresses
Adornment
Ephemeral constructions of flowers, leaves, horn and fruit worn for a day.
Saginye duelling poles
Sport & ritual
The long hardwood poles of the ceremonial stick-fights.
Lip-plates and ear ornaments
Body art
Clay and wooden plates worn in stretched lip and earlobes.
Pre-1900
Surmic peoples occupy the southwestern highlands and lowlands; Suri groups establish their present territories.
Early 20th c.
Nominal Ethiopian incorporation; the region remains remote and lightly administered through the imperial period.
1980s–2000s
Automatic weapons enter the region from Sudan's wars, intensifying conflict with Nyangatom and other neighbours; anthropological documentation grows.
2010s
Gold rushes, land concessions, resettlement pressure and violent clashes with state forces disrupt Suri life severely.
Present
The Suri maintain body-art, saginye and pastoralism under acute pressure; access for outsiders is often restricted by insecurity.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources