Bazin
A firm dome of barley dough boiled in the broth it is served with, eaten by hand from a communal dish. The dough is beaten with a stick called a magraf until it is stiff enough to hold its shape.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
A Black Libyan town of forty thousand emptied in 2011 by militias from neighbouring Misrata, its name scraped off road signs, its people scattered into camps for a decade, and its return in 2018 into a place with no water and no electricity.
Population: Around 40,000 before 2011; a partial and precarious return since 2018
Location: Tawergha, 250 kilometres east of Tripoli and 38 kilometres south of Misrata, on the coastal plain
Language: Libyan Arabic
Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Semitic → Arabic
Traditional governance: A local council in exile for most of the past decade; a 2018 national reconciliation agreement provided for return, and its implementation has been partial.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Camp communities
Displaced families in Benghazi, Tripoli and Ajdabiya camps between 2011 and 2018.
Returnee households
Those who have gone back since 2018 to a town largely without services.
Diaspora abroad
Families who left Libya entirely, mostly to Tunisia and Egypt.
Clothing: Libyan dress; the community's dark skin, in a country where the descendants of enslaved people are still marked by it, has been the operative fact of its recent history.
Food: Libyan cooking of couscous, bazin and dates; the camps produced a decade of cooking on rations and shared kitchens.
Ceremonies: Islamic festivals, kept in the camps; weddings, which continued through displacement; commemorations of the town's emptying, held annually.
Marriage customs: Islamic marriage; the community's endogamy has been reinforced by displacement and by the hostility of neighbouring towns.
Initiation rites: Quranic school; schooling in the camps was provided unevenly and a generation's education was substantially disrupted.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Libya, at national rather than community level — 8 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
A firm dome of barley dough boiled in the broth it is served with, eaten by hand from a communal dish. The dough is beaten with a stick called a magraf until it is stiff enough to hold its shape.
Serves 6 · 2 hours
Lamb soup with orzo, mint and a great deal of tomato, eaten daily through Ramadan and at almost every Libyan table besides. The dried mint stirred in at the end is not optional.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Libyan pasta soup
Broken pasta cooked in a spiced tomato and lamb broth until it absorbs everything, the Libyan weekday dinner and a dish of the whole Tripolitanian coast.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Potato slices sandwiched around spiced minced meat, battered and deep fried. Sold from Ramadan stalls in Tripoli and Benghazi and made at home in quantities that never seem to be enough.
Serves Makes 12 · 45 minutes
Couscous served with osban, a sausage of offal, rice, herbs and spices packed into tripe. Made for Eid from the sacrificed animal, and the dish Libyans abroad miss most.
Serves 8 · 3 hours
also Chickpea flour biscuits
Crumbling biscuits of roasted chickpea flour and butter, made for Eid across Libya and gone within a day.
Serves Makes about 40 · 1 hour
Hand-cut noodles steamed and served with a chickpea and onion sauce, from Tripolitania. A quiet, unspiced dish in a cuisine that is otherwise emphatic, and usually eaten in winter.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
A soft wheat pudding served in a pool of date syrup and olive oil, eaten for the Prophet's birthday and to celebrate a birth. Sweet, plain and eaten from the shared dish with the fingers.
Serves 6 · 30 minutes
The Town ErasedContemporary account
During the 2011 war, Tawergha was used by Gaddafi's forces as a base for the siege of Misrata, and some Tawerghans fought with them. When Misrata's brigades took the town in August 2011 they drove out the entire population, looted and burned the houses, and painted over the name on the road signs. Human rights investigators described what followed as a possible crime against humanity.
Descent as AccusationSocial account
Tawergha's population is descended largely from enslaved people brought north on the trans-Saharan routes, and the town was among the poorest and darkest-skinned in Libya. Investigators and Libyan commentators alike have recorded that the retribution was framed in racial terms from the start, with Tawerghans accused collectively as a group rather than individually as fighters.
“They painted over the name and the road still goes there.”
Erasure that did not work.
“A whole town cannot commit a crime.”
The community's central argument against collective punishment.
“We came back to walls without water.”
The 2018 return, as returnees describe it.
Creation: Islamic cosmology, shared with the country entirely; the community's distinguishing history is one of descent and displacement rather than of separate belief.
Beliefs: Sunni Maliki Islam, identical to that of the towns that expelled them, which is part of what makes the case a matter of race rather than of religion.
Ancestors: Descent from enslaved people carried north across the Sahara is the community's origin and, in 2011, became the pretext for its destruction.
Allah
The one God, worshipped identically with the rest of Libya
Local saints
Marabout tombs of the coastal plain, several damaged or destroyed since 2011
The 2018 agreement
Not sacred, but the document on which the community's future formally rests
Traditional settlements: A modern Libyan town of concrete villas and public buildings, systematically looted and burned in 2011, with partial reoccupation since 2018.
Building techniques: Concrete and block construction typical of late twentieth-century Libyan development; the town's rebuilding since 2018 has been slow and largely unfunded.
Village layout: A planned coastal-plain town with school, hospital and mosque, most of which stood empty for seven years and much of which remains unusable.
The painted-over road signs
Historical object
Signs from which the town's name was erased after 2011.
Displacement camps
Heritage site
Sites in Benghazi, Tripoli and Ajdabiya that housed the community for seven years.
2018 reconciliation agreement
Archive
The document providing for return, implemented only partially.
Human rights investigations
Archive
Documentation by international bodies of the town's emptying.
1800s
Tawergha is settled substantially by people descended from those carried north on the trans-Saharan slave routes.
Pre-2011
A town of around 40,000, among the poorest in coastal Libya.
August 2011
Misratan brigades take the town and expel its entire population; houses are looted and burned.
2011–2018
The community lives in camps across Libya; returns are repeatedly blocked.
2018
A reconciliation agreement permits return; the town has little water or electricity and reoccupation is partial.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources