Tawergha

A Black Libyan town of forty thousand emptied in 2011 by militias from neighbouring Misrata, its name scraped off road signs, its people scattered into camps for a decade, and its return in 2018 into a place with no water and no electricity.

Identity

Population: Around 40,000 before 2011; a partial and precarious return since 2018

Location: Tawergha, 250 kilometres east of Tripoli and 38 kilometres south of Misrata, on the coastal plain

Language: Libyan Arabic

Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Semitic → Arabic

Traditional governance: A local council in exile for most of the past decade; a 2018 national reconciliation agreement provided for return, and its implementation has been partial.

Clans, Sections & Sub-groups (3)

Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.

Camp communities

Displaced families in Benghazi, Tripoli and Ajdabiya camps between 2011 and 2018.

Returnee households

Those who have gone back since 2018 to a town largely without services.

Diaspora abroad

Families who left Libya entirely, mostly to Tunisia and Egypt.

Culture

Clothing: Libyan dress; the community's dark skin, in a country where the descendants of enslaved people are still marked by it, has been the operative fact of its recent history.

Food: Libyan cooking of couscous, bazin and dates; the camps produced a decade of cooking on rations and shared kitchens.

Ceremonies: Islamic festivals, kept in the camps; weddings, which continued through displacement; commemorations of the town's emptying, held annually.

Marriage customs: Islamic marriage; the community's endogamy has been reinforced by displacement and by the hostility of neighbouring towns.

Initiation rites: Quranic school; schooling in the camps was provided unevenly and a generation's education was substantially disrupted.

Food & Recipes

Every dish the Atlas publishes for Libya, at national rather than community level — 8 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.

StapleLibya

Bazin

A firm dome of barley dough boiled in the broth it is served with, eaten by hand from a communal dish. The dough is beaten with a stick called a magraf until it is stiff enough to hold its shape.

Serves 6 · 2 hours

National dishLibya

Shorba Libiya

Lamb soup with orzo, mint and a great deal of tomato, eaten daily through Ramadan and at almost every Libyan table besides. The dried mint stirred in at the end is not optional.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes

National dishLibya

Mbekbka

also Libyan pasta soup

Broken pasta cooked in a spiced tomato and lamb broth until it absorbs everything, the Libyan weekday dinner and a dish of the whole Tripolitanian coast.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes

Street foodLibya

Mbatten

Potato slices sandwiched around spiced minced meat, battered and deep fried. Sold from Ramadan stalls in Tripoli and Benghazi and made at home in quantities that never seem to be enough.

Serves Makes 12 · 45 minutes

Festival & feastLibya

Couscous bil Osban

Couscous served with osban, a sausage of offal, rice, herbs and spices packed into tripe. Made for Eid from the sacrificed animal, and the dish Libyans abroad miss most.

Serves 8 · 3 hours

Festival & feastLibya

Ghraiba

also Chickpea flour biscuits

Crumbling biscuits of roasted chickpea flour and butter, made for Eid across Libya and gone within a day.

Serves Makes about 40 · 1 hour

Regional specialityLibya

Rishda

Hand-cut noodles steamed and served with a chickpea and onion sauce, from Tripolitania. A quiet, unspiced dish in a cuisine that is otherwise emphatic, and usually eaten in winter.

Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes

Drink & sweetLibya

Asida bil Rub

A soft wheat pudding served in a pool of date syrup and olive oil, eaten for the Prophet's birthday and to celebrate a birth. Sweet, plain and eaten from the shared dish with the fingers.

Serves 6 · 30 minutes

Stories & Oral Literature

The Town ErasedContemporary account

During the 2011 war, Tawergha was used by Gaddafi's forces as a base for the siege of Misrata, and some Tawerghans fought with them. When Misrata's brigades took the town in August 2011 they drove out the entire population, looted and burned the houses, and painted over the name on the road signs. Human rights investigators described what followed as a possible crime against humanity.

Descent as AccusationSocial account

Tawergha's population is descended largely from enslaved people brought north on the trans-Saharan routes, and the town was among the poorest and darkest-skinned in Libya. Investigators and Libyan commentators alike have recorded that the retribution was framed in racial terms from the start, with Tawerghans accused collectively as a group rather than individually as fighters.

Proverbs

They painted over the name and the road still goes there.

Erasure that did not work.

A whole town cannot commit a crime.

The community's central argument against collective punishment.

We came back to walls without water.

The 2018 return, as returnees describe it.

Mythology & Spiritual Beliefs

Creation: Islamic cosmology, shared with the country entirely; the community's distinguishing history is one of descent and displacement rather than of separate belief.

Beliefs: Sunni Maliki Islam, identical to that of the towns that expelled them, which is part of what makes the case a matter of race rather than of religion.

Ancestors: Descent from enslaved people carried north across the Sahara is the community's origin and, in 2011, became the pretext for its destruction.

Gods, Goddesses & Spirits

Allah

The one God, worshipped identically with the rest of Libya

Local saints

Marabout tombs of the coastal plain, several damaged or destroyed since 2011

The 2018 agreement

Not sacred, but the document on which the community's future formally rests

Architecture

Traditional settlements: A modern Libyan town of concrete villas and public buildings, systematically looted and burned in 2011, with partial reoccupation since 2018.

Building techniques: Concrete and block construction typical of late twentieth-century Libyan development; the town's rebuilding since 2018 has been slow and largely unfunded.

Village layout: A planned coastal-plain town with school, hospital and mosque, most of which stood empty for seven years and much of which remains unusable.

Artifacts

The painted-over road signs

Historical object

Signs from which the town's name was erased after 2011.

Displacement camps

Heritage site

Sites in Benghazi, Tripoli and Ajdabiya that housed the community for seven years.

2018 reconciliation agreement

Archive

The document providing for return, implemented only partially.

Human rights investigations

Archive

Documentation by international bodies of the town's emptying.

Historical Timeline

  1. 1800s

    Tawergha is settled substantially by people descended from those carried north on the trans-Saharan slave routes.

  2. Pre-2011

    A town of around 40,000, among the poorest in coastal Libya.

  3. August 2011

    Misratan brigades take the town and expel its entire population; houses are looted and burned.

  4. 2011–2018

    The community lives in camps across Libya; returns are repeatedly blocked.

  5. 2018

    A reconciliation agreement permits return; the town has little water or electricity and reoccupation is partial.

Sources & Further Reading

Premium & scholarly sources