Funge
also Angu
Cassava or maize flour cooked to a smooth stiff paste, eaten under calulu and every other sauce on the islands.
Serves 6 · 25 minutes
Those born on the plantation — the children and grandchildren of contract workers brought from Angola, Mozambique and Cabo Verde, who inherited the roça without inheriting land, and whose Portuguese-based speech and music are the sound of the cocoa century.

Tongas people
Tikšanās ar Tongas parlamenta priekšsēdētāju 09.jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: Tens of thousands across both islands; the term marks origin rather than a formal census category
Location: The old roça estates of São Tomé and Príncipe, particularly Água Izé, Rio do Ouro (Agostinho Neto) and Porto Real
Language: Português dos Tongas, a distinctive local Portuguese, alongside Forro and Cabo Verdean Kriolu in mixed households
Language family: Portuguese with Bantu and creole influence
Traditional governance: Estate authority until nationalisation in 1975, then state farms, then partial redistribution; Tonga communities have organised over land title and housing on the former roças ever since.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Angolan-descended
Families from the earliest and largest recruitment, and the main source of Kimbundu and Umbundu vocabulary.
Mozambican-descended
Recruited heavily in the early twentieth century, with distinct musical inheritance.
Cabo Verdean-descended
Recruited during the famines; many families retain Kriolu and links to the archipelago.
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Clothing: Working dress of the estate; the socopé and ússua dance traditions carry costume that borrows from both Portuguese ballroom and continental African forms.
Food: Estate rations transformed into a cuisine: maize, beans, dried fish, banana and palm oil, with calulu shared across island society.
Ceremonies: Socopé and ússua dances; saint days at the roça chapels; funerals in which continental African burial custom persisted longest.
Marriage customs: Consensual union widespread, in part because the estate system discouraged and complicated formal marriage; strong intermarriage between the recruited nationalities.
Initiation rites: None formalised; entry into estate work at adolescence was the practical passage, and land claims after 1975 the modern equivalent.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for São Tomé and Príncipe, at national rather than community level — 9 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
also Angu
Cassava or maize flour cooked to a smooth stiff paste, eaten under calulu and every other sauce on the islands.
Serves 6 · 25 minutes
Dried and fresh fish stewed with okra, aubergine and forest greens in palm oil, the national dish of São Tomé and shared with Angola. Served with funge or angu.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus soaking
Small fried fish or fritters sold in cones of paper at the market and the beach, eaten hot with chilli and lime.
Serves 4 · 30 minutes
also Fried banana with fish
Fried plantain with a small grilled fish and a spoon of chilli, sold from stalls along São Tomé's waterfront and eaten standing up.
Serves 4 · 35 minutes
Beans stewed with pork, smoked meat and palm oil, made for Sundays and festivals. The Portuguese dish rebuilt with island ingredients.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes, plus soaking
A slow-cooked mix of fish, meat and vegetables in one pot, whose name suggests everything in the world went into it. Cooked on the roças and at village gatherings.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
also Palm nut and fish stew
Fish stewed in palm nut sauce with island herbs, a São Toméan dish that sits between the Gulf of Guinea mainland and the Portuguese kitchen.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 15 minutes
Hot chocolate made from the islands' own cocoa, which once made São Tomé the world's largest producer. Ground with cinnamon and drunk thick.
Serves 4 · 20 minutes
also Cocoa punch
Sugarcane spirit steeped with cocoa nibs, cinnamon and condensed milk, from islands that once supplied a large share of the world's cocoa.
Serves Makes 1 litre · 20 minutes, plus 2 weeks steeping
The Cocoa Slavery ScandalHistorical account
In 1905 the British journalist Henry Nevinson published evidence that the contracted workers on São Tomé's cocoa estates were slaves in all but name, recruited by force in Angola, shipped under guard and never repatriated. Cadbury and other buyers eventually boycotted São Toméan cocoa. The system was reformed on paper and continued in substance; the Tongas are its descendants.
Batepá, 1953Historical account
When the administration attempted to force Forros into estate labour, resistance was met with a massacre in which hundreds were killed. The event fused the island's separate grievances into a national politics, and it is commemorated every February as the country's founding wound.
“The roça bell rings for everyone but the owner.”
Estate labour, described from inside.
“Born here, but the land has another name.”
The Tonga land question in a sentence.
“The dance we brought is the one thing they could not take.”
Culture as retained property.
Creation: Catholic cosmology as taught on the estates, layered over Angolan and Mozambican understandings of ancestors and of witchcraft brought by the recruited generations.
Beliefs: Catholicism; belief in witchcraft and in protective medicine; the dead of the estate cemeteries as a present community, since most workers were never repatriated.
Ancestors: Estate cemeteries hold generations who died without returning; commemoration there is simultaneously family memory and political statement.
Nossa Senhora
The Virgin of the roça chapels
Ancestral dead
The recruited generations buried far from home
Protective medicine
Charms and treatments carried from the mainland
Traditional settlements: The sanzala labour lines of the roças — long terraces of single rooms, now inhabited by descendants as permanent housing, often without title.
Building techniques: Colonial masonry with tiled roofs, built for durability and surveillance; the great estate houses, hospitals, chapels and drying terraces around a central courtyard.
Village layout: Owner's house on high ground, hospital and chapel below, labour lines arranged for supervision, drying yards and rail sidings at the centre — an industrial plan now serving as a village.
Roça sanzala housing
Architecture
Labour terraces of the cocoa estates, still inhabited.
Socopé and ússua costume
Performance
Dress of the island's plantation-born dance traditions.
Cocoa drying terraces
Heritage site
Sliding-roof drying yards, the estates' industrial signature.
Estate rail rolling stock
Heritage
Narrow-gauge equipment that moved cocoa from field to port.
1875–1900s
Abolition on paper; contracted serviçais recruited in Angola replace enslaved labour.
1905–1913
Nevinson's reporting and the chocolate boycott expose conditions on the roças.
1900s–1950s
Recruitment extends to Mozambique and Cabo Verde; a plantation-born population takes shape.
1953
Batepá massacre.
1975–present
Nationalisation and redistribution leave many Tonga families living on the roças without secure title.
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