Yabs (Petits Blancs des Hauts)

The poor white farmers of Réunion's highlands — descendants of early French settlers who never acquired estates, who farmed the cirques and the volcanic uplands on smallholdings, and who supply the island with its lentils, its geranium oil and a good deal of its self-mockery.

Yabs (Petits Blancs des Hauts) people

Yabs (Petits Blancs des Hauts) people

Catalogue des tableaux modernes, aquarelles, pastels, dessins, sculptures, objets d'art, composant la collection de m. Arsène Alexandre et dont la vente aura lieu à Paris, Galerie Georges Petit les 18 (14782224845).jpg · Wikimedia Commons

Identity

Population: A substantial component of the island's population, concentrated in the Hauts

Location: The interior highlands — Cilaos, Salazie, Plaine-des-Palmistes, Plaine-des-Cafres and the volcano's slopes

Language: Réunion Creole, with highland speech treated on the island as the most conservative variety

Language family: French-lexified creole

Traditional governance: French communal administration; historically smallholder farming outside the plantation system's structures of credit and control.

Clans, Sections & Sub-groups (3)

Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.

Cilaos

Cirque community famed for lentils, thermal springs and embroidery.

Salazie and Hell-Bourg

Cirque settlement with chouchou (chayote) terraces and colonial-era spa architecture.

Plaine-des-Cafres

High plateau of cattle, geranium distillation and market gardening.

Culture

Clothing: Working farm dress; straw hats and the embroidered work of Cilaos as the local craft signature.

Food: Cilaos lentils, chouchou in every form, boucané smoked pork, cari, and the island's charcuterie; wine from Cilaos, unusual at this latitude.

Ceremonies: Catholic parish festivals and pilgrimages; the harvest and distillation seasons; village fêtes with séga and maloya.

Marriage customs: Catholic marriage, historically endogamous within the highland communities, which produced a distinctive genealogy of a few founding families.

Initiation rites: None formal; taking on a share of the family plot marks adult standing, as in smallholder societies generally.

Food & Recipes

Every dish the Atlas publishes for Réunion, at national rather than community level — 6 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.

StapleRéunion

Riz, Grains et Brèdes

Rice with lentils or beans and a plate of stewed greens, the frame every Réunionnais meal is built on. A carry is added on top; this is what sits underneath.

Serves 6 · 1 hour

National dishRéunion

Cari Poulet

Chicken braised with turmeric, thyme, garlic and tomato, the dish that defines Réunionnais cooking. Every family has a version and each considers the others slightly wrong.

Serves 6 · 1 hour

Street foodRéunion

Samoussa

Small crisp triangles of tuna, chicken or cheese, sold from every bakery and beach kiosk on the island and eaten by the handful with a beer.

Serves Makes 24 · 1 hour

Festival & feastRéunion

Massalé Cabri

Goat cooked with massalé, the Réunionnais spice blend of Tamil origin, made for Sunday gatherings and for the Cavadee and Dipavali festivals.

Serves 6 · 2 hours

Regional specialityRéunion

Rougail Saucisse

Smoked sausage stewed in tomato, ginger and chilli, the most-cooked dish in Réunionnais homes. Fast, cheap, and made in enormous pots for beach picnics.

Serves 6 · 50 minutes

Drink & sweetRéunion

Rhum Arrangé

Cane rum steeped with vanilla, fruit and spices for months and poured after dinner. Every household keeps a bottle going and every household's is different.

Serves Makes 1 litre · 10 minutes, plus 3 months steeping

Stories & Oral Literature

Cilaos, Which Means One Does Not LeaveLocal tradition

The cirque's name is popularly derived from the Malagasy tsilaosa, the place one does not leave, and was first settled by maroons before poor white farmers moved in. The community that formed there is now known for lentils grown at altitude, embroidery developed in the nineteenth century, and thermal waters that made it a spa long before it had a road.

Geranium OilEconomic history

Rose geranium distilled on the volcano's slopes supplied the European perfume industry for a century, giving highland smallholders a cash crop they could grow on steep land. Competition from Egypt and China collapsed the trade, and the copper stills that survive are now mostly heritage rather than industry.

Proverbs

Ti hach i coup gros bois.

A small axe fells a big tree.

The island's shared motto of small means and persistence.

The Hauts are cold but they are yours.

Smallholding over wage work on the coast.

A road reaches the cirque last and the tax collector first.

Highland scepticism about the state.

Mythology & Spiritual Beliefs

Creation: Catholic cosmology; the volcano, the Piton de la Fournaise, occupies the imaginative place elsewhere held by origin narrative.

Beliefs: Roman Catholicism with strong parish and pilgrimage life; Saint-Expédit shrines; belief in healers and in the properties of the island's plants.

Ancestors: Family graves in village cemeteries; genealogies traceable to a handful of founding settlers, and much discussed.

Gods, Goddesses & Spirits

The Virgin

Focus of highland pilgrimages and roadside shrines

Saint-Expédit

Saint of urgent requests, with red shrines throughout the Hauts

The volcano

Addressed in speech as an agent with moods

Architecture

Traditional settlements: Villages in the cirques and on the plateaus, houses scattered among terraced plots, reachable historically only on foot.

Building techniques: Timber case créole with lambrequin fretwork, shingle and later sheet roofing; dry-stone terracing on steep ground; copper distillation stills.

Village layout: Case with varangue veranda facing the valley, jardin créole of food and medicinal plants, outbuildings for animals and distillation.

Artifacts

Cilaos embroidery (jours de Cilaos)

Craft

Drawn-thread needlework developed in the cirque in the nineteenth century.

Geranium stills

Industry

Copper distillation apparatus of the highland perfume crop.

Case créole with lambrequins

Architecture

Timber house with decorative zinc fretwork, the island's domestic signature.

Cilaos lentils

Livelihood

High-altitude pulse with protected origin status on the island.

Historical Timeline

  1. 1665–1700s

    French settlement; some settlers acquire estates and others do not, producing the highland smallholder class.

  2. 1800s

    Cirques settled and terraced; thermal spa at Cilaos develops; embroidery tradition begins.

  3. 1900s–1960s

    Geranium oil distillation becomes the highland cash crop.

  4. 1946–present

    Departmentalisation, roads and electricity reach the cirques; agriculture diversifies.

  5. 2010

    The cirques and volcanic peaks inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Sources & Further Reading

Open sources

Premium & scholarly sources