Khobz
Round semolina and flour loaves baked daily, often carried to a communal neighbourhood oven and collected again with the family mark still on them. Bread is the utensil at a Moroccan table.
Serves Makes 2 loaves · 2 hours
The transhumant herders of Morocco's cedar highlands — Tamazight speakers whose cavalry held French columns for two decades, whose ahidus dance fills the mountain nights, and whose seasonal movement between summer pasture and winter valley is now largely over.
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Middle Atlas Amazigh (Zayane and Beni Mguild) people
Tafilet; the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara (1895) (14596234198).jpg · Wikimedia Commons
Population: Over a million across the Middle Atlas
Location: Khenifra, Azrou, Ifrane, Midelt and the cedar forests and high plateaux of the Middle Atlas
Language: Tamazight (Central Atlas Amazigh)
Language family: Afro-Asiatic → Berber
Traditional governance: Tribal confederations with jemaa councils and customary law; the taqbilt as the political unit; today Moroccan provincial administration.
Most African peoples are federations of named sub-groups (clans, sections, chiefdoms or sub-tribes), each with its own dialect, territory and traditions.
Zayane
Confederation of the Khenifra region, led against the French by Moha ou Hammou.
Beni Mguild
Confederation of the Azrou and Ifrane highlands.
Ait Sokhman and Ait Hadiddou
Neighbouring groups of the high plateaux and the eastern High Atlas margins.
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Clothing: Wool cloaks and burnous against mountain cold; women's handira wedding capes with sequins and thick weave; heavy silver and amber jewellery.
Food: Barley and wheat couscous, lamb, sheep's milk and butter aged in earthenware; mountain honey; tea with wormwood in winter.
Ceremonies: Ahidus, the collective dance in a tight circle with bendir frame drums and responsorial sung poetry; the Imilchil betrothal moussem; transhumance departure and return.
Marriage customs: Bridewealth in livestock; the Imilchil moussem of the neighbouring Ait Hadiddou, at which betrothals are publicly agreed, is the region's most famous marriage institution.
Initiation rites: No formal rite; taking responsibility for the flock on transhumance is the practical passage.
Every dish the Atlas publishes for Morocco, at national rather than community level — 9 in all: the staple a household eats daily, the dish the country names as its own, street food, what is cooked for a wedding or Eid, regional specialities and a drink. Quantities and method are given for every one, so these are recipes rather than descriptions, and each has a photograph from Wikimedia Commons. The Food page carries the whole continent, searchable by country and by ingredient.
Round semolina and flour loaves baked daily, often carried to a communal neighbourhood oven and collected again with the family mark still on them. Bread is the utensil at a Moroccan table.
Serves Makes 2 loaves · 2 hours
also Lham bel barkouk
Lamb cooked slowly in a conical earthenware pot with prunes, cinnamon and honey, finished with sesame and almonds. The sweet-savoury balance is the signature of Moroccan festive cooking.
Serves 6 · 2 hours 30 minutes
Square laminated flatbreads, folded around butter and semolina and griddled until layered and crisp. Sold at breakfast stalls and eaten with honey, amlou or simply torn into mint tea.
Serves Makes 8 · 1 hour 15 minutes
also Broad bean soup, Bessara
Dried broad beans cooked to a thick purée with garlic and cumin, finished with a slick of olive oil and paprika. Morocco's winter breakfast, sold from carts before dawn.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking
also Bstilla, B'stilla
Pigeon or chicken and almonds in warqa pastry, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. Served at weddings as the first course, and the clearest survival of Andalusian cooking in Morocco.
Serves 8 · 2 hours 30 minutes
also Trid, Rfissa bel djaj
Chicken cooked with lentils and fenugreek in ras el hanout, served over torn msemen or trid pastry that soaks up the broth. Cooked in Morocco for a woman who has just given birth.
Serves 8 · 2 hours
also Sfouf, Slilou
Toasted flour, almonds and sesame bound with butter and honey into a dense unbaked sweet, made for Ramadan and for new mothers and kept for weeks.
Serves 12 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Tomato, lentil and chickpea soup thickened with a flour and water tedouira, eaten to break the fast every evening of Ramadan, usually with dates and chebakia alongside.
Serves 6 · 1 hour 30 minutes
Argan oil, roasted almonds and honey ground to a thick spread, from the Souss where the argan tree grows and nowhere else. Eaten at breakfast with bread and mint tea.
Serves Makes 1 jar · 30 minutes
El Herri, 1914Historical account
Moha ou Hammou Zayani's forces destroyed a French column at El Herri near Khenifra in November 1914, killing over six hundred men including the commanding colonel. It was among the worst French defeats in Morocco, and Zayane resistance continued until 1921. The Middle Atlas was not fully under French control until the 1930s.
The Cedar and the ApeEcology and livelihood
The Middle Atlas cedar forest is the largest in the world and home to the Barbary macaque, North Africa's only wild primate. Herding, logging, drought and the pet trade have all pressed on it; the macaque is endangered and the cedars are dying back. Local associations now run tree planting and macaque protection alongside the grazing that shaped the forest in the first place.
“Snow on the peak, milk in the tent.”
Good winters make good summers.
“The flock knows the road better than the shepherd's son.”
Inherited routes and animal memory.
“Ahidus is danced by the village, not the dancer.”
Collective performance as the mountain's social form.
Creation: Islamic cosmology over Amazigh substrate; springs, caves and particular cedars carry local significance and prohibitions.
Beliefs: Sunni Maliki Islam; zawiya lodges and marabout tombs; belief in baraka, the evil eye and in the ritual efficacy of collective dance; women's shrine visitation.
Ancestors: Lineage graves anchor rights to pasture and to water; genealogy governs the allocation of collective land.
Allah
The one God
Local marabouts
Holy figures whose moussems structure the mountain calendar
Spirits of springs and caves
Powers of particular places, respected and avoided
Traditional settlements: Stone and earth villages in the valleys, black wool tents on the summer pastures, agadir-style granaries in some areas; Azrou and Khenifra as market towns.
Building techniques: Stone with earth mortar and flat roofs; woven goat and sheep-hair tents; cedar timber roofing where the forest allows.
Village layout: Village around mosque and threshing floor; summer camps by the high pastures; winter quarters in the sheltered valleys.
Handira wedding cape
Textile
Heavy woven cape with sequins, made by women for brides.
Bendir frame drum
Instrument
The drum that drives ahidus.
Middle Atlas carpets
Textile
Thick pile rugs of Beni Mguild and Beni Ouarain type, globally collected.
Cedar forests of Ifrane
Heritage site
The world's largest cedar stand and last habitat of the Barbary macaque.
Antiquity–1800s
Transhumant Amazigh confederations occupy the Middle Atlas.
1914
Zayane forces destroy a French column at El Herri.
1921–1933
Resistance in the Atlas ends; French administration imposed.
1930
The Berber Dahir attempts to separate Amazigh customary law from Moroccan Islamic law, provoking a nationalist backlash.
2011–present
Tamazight recognised as an official language; transhumance declines sharply.
Open sources
Premium & scholarly sources